autumn road

Here is the world. Beautiful and terrible things will happen. Don't be afraid.
--Frederick Buechner (1926-2022)

Above: Autumn Road near the Nolichucky River, Erwin, TN.

filled with glory

Look at everything as though you were seeing it either for the first or last time. Then your time on earth will be filled with glory. 
--Betty Smith (1896-1972) American author.

Above: My friend Tim takes in this view of the Nolichucky River from the Appalachian Trail for the first time. For a description of the hike and directions, click here.

The Nolichucky is a tributary of the French Broad River and flows 115 miles from western North Carolina through east Tennessee. The name, Nolichucky, is a bit unclear. Some say the name derived from a Cherokee village that once stood near today's Jonesborough, TN the name of which meant "spruce pine place." Local lore says it derives from an Indian word meaning "Rushing Water(s)", "Dangerous Water(s)", or "Black Swirling Water." As you can probably guess, today it is a popular whitewater rafting destination. The railroad bridge you see in the photo was built way back in 1907.

time-tested

“I know you have been critically looking at the mores and customs of the past and questioning their value. Every generation does that. But don't discard the time-tested values upon which civilization has been built just because they are old.” --Ronald Reagan

This old railroad bridge spans the Nolichucky River in Unicoi County, TN just south of Erwin. It replaced the original wood bridge in 1908. Here's the view from the Appalachian Trail high above.

Nolichucky River Views

Re-discovered a wonderful section of the AT for those wanting a quick out-and-back hike. The section heading north from the Nolichucky River is lovely this time of year, with impressive views of the river and beautiful hemlock stands. You park across the river and kitty-corner from Uncle Johnny's Hostel. The first part takes you over the CSX tracks and then, as you climb, the trail parallels the river and becomes narrow and rocky. Far below, you can hear the river thundering.  I'm not sure my photos do it justice, but the views this time of year are wonderful. Click on the top two photos and you'll get a better look of the river. After following the river, the trail then enters the woods -- this section is rock-lined and nicely maintained -- and also much more level and easy going.  We crossed over two footbridges and went out a total of 2+ miles before heading back.

For those interested, the entire section from the Nolichucky to Indian Grave Gap is 8.3 miles.

If you want even greater views and a shorter, steeper hike, then head south on the AT from Uncle Johnny's. More info here.

great and small

One sees great things from the valley; only small things from the peak. 
--G. K. Chesterton (1874-1936) English Author.

Above: A view of Erwin, TN and "The Valley Beautiful" as seen from the Appalachian Trail.  This hike also gives outstanding views of the Nolichucky River (left). While steep, it's a short hike -- only 1.25 miles.  Directions here.

many more hills to climb

After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. 
--Nelson Mandela (1918-2013) South African President. 

For directions to this overlook of the Nolichucky River along the Appalachian Trail, click here.

An American Classic

Oh Shenandoah, I long to see you,
Away you rolling river.
Oh Shenandoah, I long to see you,
Away, I'm bound away, 'cross the wide Missouri.
--American Folk Song, "Oh Shenandoah" 

This shot above of the Nolichucky River in Greene County, TN reminded me of the song and video below. The song is done A-Capella -- all the sounds you'll hear were performed by Peter Hollens. The origin of the song is unknown. It's said to date to at least the early 1800s - but was not published until the 1880s. It has been recorded and performed by such diverse and legendary singers as Bing Crosby, Judy Garland, Harry Belafonte, Bob Dylan and Bruce Springsteen. More lyrics here. From the Library of Congress website:

"As unclear as is the song’s origin, so is the definitive interpretation of its text. Some believe that the song refers to the river of the same name. Others suggest that it is of Native American origin, for it tells the tale of Sally, the daughter of the Indian Chief Shenandoah, who is courted for seven years by a white Missouri river trader. Regardless of these textual discrepancies, 'Shenandoah' remains an American classic."

old timer

Darn the wheel of the world! Why must it continually turn over? Where is the reverse gear?
--Jack London (1876-1916) American author, journalist.

This train trestle spans the Nolichucky River in Unicoi County, TN just south of Erwin. It replaced the original wood bridge in 1908. It wasn't until after I took the photo I realized there are two young people hanging out under the tracks on the middle pillar.  Makes me nervous thinking what they had to do to get under there. Yikes!  For a photo of the tracks from above click here. And here's the view from the Appalachian Trail high above.

Devil's Looking Glass

To err is human, to repent divine, to persist devilish.
--Benjamin Franklin (1706-1790) US statesman, author, inventor. 

The Devil's Looking Glass is a rock formation rising hundreds of feet above the Nolichucky River outside of Erwin, TN. This sheer cliff has been the subject of fascination, mystery and dread for centuries. It's said the Yuchi and Cherokee Indians avoided the area out of fear of the image in the rock cliff. Local folklore tells of cries of agony heard coming from the rocks, images of Satan seen on moonlit nights, and tales of a lover who leaped from the top of the cliff upon learning her love had died in battle -- she is said to now haunt this area.  More information on the hauntings associated with this cliff here.

perspective

Quotations help us remember the simple yet profound truths that give life perspective and meaning. When it comes to life's most important lessons, we can all use gentle reminders.
--Criswell Freeman, author

This is the view of the Nolichucky River from the Appalachian Trail south of Erwin, TN. It's a fairly steep climb to get to to this vantage point, but well worth it. Best to set out on this one in the early morning, rather than the heat of the day! Lots of switchbacks lead you up the mountain and just when you think you've reached the top (or a top) it keeps on going. Your efforts will be rewarded with many different overlooks of the Nolichucky to the east and the city of Erwin to the north. I was surprised by just how beautiful this portion of the trail was -- with your typical rhododendron thickets at the beginning soon giving way to a moss-lined trail with laurels, pines and hemlocks -- and then becoming a mature hardwood forest. It had just rained and the colors of the forest were rich and the fragrant scent of the pines permeated the forest -- making for a beautiful (but strenuous) walk in the woods.

Directions: To get there, take I-26 to the Jackson-Love Highway (Exit 40) on the south side of Erwin, TN and turn east toward town. You'll then immediately take the first right onto Temple Hill Road. Travel for 0.8 miles and then turn left onto River Road (also known as Unaka Springs Rd) and travel 0.45 miles until you reach a stop sign. On your right will be Uncle Johnny Hostel, a popular stopping point for AT thru-hikers. The trail crosses through this intersection and goes across the bridge to your left before re-entering the woods. Go straight through this intersection, and immediately park as best you can on right hand side of the road. The AT begins its ascent up the hill just a few steps further on the right. It's about a 1.25 to 1.5 mile hike (one way). When you first reach an overlook next to the trail giving a nice view of the Nolichucky, venture on another 1/4 mile and you'll come to another, even better overlook.

Spanning a Century

This curved train trestle spans the Nolichucky River in Unicoi County, TN near the location of the Unaka Springs Hotel. It replaced the original wood bridge in 1908.

So far this week I've posted some photos that were completely manipulated. For this photo, I actually did very little in Lightroom except minor changes to white balance and exposure. The only preset I used was a very slight vignette.

Nolichucky Magic

 

The late afternoon light really brought out the warm tones of this scene of the Nolichucky River in Unicoi County, TN. It was actually a too much, so I desaturated this a bit. Using the cloudy or shady white balance selection will also 'warm up' a scene dramatically (often too much!). The best photographs are usually taken in the hours surrounding dusk and dawn. It's during these hours when the light is dispersed and softened, long shadows created, and the warm, golden tones work their magic.

A radical, restless life

 

Your life is not going to be easy, and it should not be easy. It ought to be hard. It ought to be radical; it ought to be restless; it ought to lead you to places you'd rather not go.--Henri Nouwen (1932-1996), priest and author

This is my favorite quote by my favorite author. Henri Nouwen was a Catholic priest, author and professor who left teaching at Harvard to live and minister in a community of mentally and physically handicapped adults. He entered this "small, hidden life" because God called him to seek his healing by living among the broken and poor in spirit. He was a man of tremendous courage, compassion and wisdom. My favorite books of his...The Return of the the Prodigal Son and In the Name of Jesus.

[In this photo, a kayaker on the Nolichucky River in Washington County, TN]