swinging bridge

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing.
--Irving Mills (1894-1985) Music Publisher and Lyricist.

A swinging bridge across Big Rock Creek in Mitchell County, NC.

observation

A battle lost or won is easily described, understood, and appreciated, but the moral growth of a great nation requires reflection, as well as observation, to appreciate it.
--Frederick Douglass (1818-1895) American abolitionist, women's suffragist, editor, orator, author, statesman and reformer

The new observation platform on Mount Mitchell, the highest point east of the Mississippi.

Mount Mitchell

With an elevation of 6,684 feet Mount Mitchell is the highest point east of the Mississippi, nearly beating out its nearby rival mountains of Mount Craig (6,647 feet) and Clingman’s Dome (6,643 feet). A quarter-mile, paved trail leads from the parking area leads to a new, spacious observation platform which opened earlier this year. The 360 degree views are amazing – but you might want to bring a jacket—it’s always chilly and windy up there -- it is said that 8 out of 10 days visitors can expect to find the summit covered with clouds. In fact, the coldest temperature ever recorded in the state of North Carolina occurred there on January 21, 1985 when the temperature plummeted to −34°F. The highest temperature ever recorded at the summit is just 81°F. Fortunately, the concession stand at the parking area sells hot chocolate.

Next to the viewing platform is the actual grave of Dr. Elisha Mitchell, the mountain's namesake (above, foreground). While a professor at University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Dr. Mitchell traveled to the region beginning in1835 to measure mountain elevations. He was determined to show that the Black Mountains were indeed the tallest in the Appalachians. Eventually, his calculations proved that his belief was correct. However, on a trip to verify his findings, Dr. Mitchell fell from a cliff above Mitchell Falls and died on June 27, 1857. He was 64. His body was originally buried in Asheville, but moved a year later to be buried atop the mountain named in his honor.

To visit, take the Blue Ridge Parkway to mile marker 355 and follow the access road through the park to the summit parking area. Click here for detailed maps and directions, and click here and here for more discussion and information about the park.

Welcome

Welcome every morning with a smile. Look on the new day as another special gift from your Creator, another golden opportunity to complete what you were unable to finish yesterday. Be a self-starter. Let your first hour set the theme of success and positive action that is certain to echo through your entire day. Today will never happen again. Don't waste it with a false start or no start at all. You were not born to fail.
--Og Mandino (1923-1996) American Essayist and Psychologist

in like a lion...

The snow itself is lonely or, if you prefer, self-sufficient. There is no other time when the whole world seems composed of one thing and one thing only.
--Joseph Wood Krutch (1893-1970) American Naturalist and Writer

This was the view earlier this week of highway 261 leading into Mitchell County, NC at Carver's Gap on Roan Mountain. NC got much more snow than we did on the TN side of the mountains this past weekend -- up to 11 inches in places. According to the Watauga Democrat, it was one of the biggest one day snowfalls in the high country since 1998. Besides shutting everything down, the snow also caused numerous power outages. But it sure was purdy.

a successful day

If I have been of service, if I have glimpsed more of the nature and essence of ultimate good, if I am inspired to reach wider horizons of thought and action, if I am at peace with myself, it has been a successful day.
--Alex Noble, artist

This is a view of the Blue Ridge taken from Round Bald in the Roan Highlands last winter and enhanced using Topaz Simplify (a Photoshop plug-in), which really brings out the color and makes the photo look more like a painting.

The Roan

To be rooted is perhaps the most important but least understood need of the human soul.
--Simone Weil (1909-1943) philosopher

I'm always struck by the love and affection people in this area have for Roan Mountain. I often hear people say that they're "going up to visit the Roan." As if they're setting out to see an old friend. And indeed they are. As I was setting up the map of all the area hikes and waterfalls I've discovered, I realized that the Roan was literally at the center of all of my Appalachian experiences.

Unaka Mountain Summit

There's so much to Unaka Mountain I have yet to discover. I'm grateful to Hiking Bill for encouraging me to the hike to the top of Unaka Mountain (elev. 5,180 feet). The Appalachian Trail actually crosses the summit of Unaka, so if you wanted to climb the entire mountain, you could start at either Iron Mountain Gap or Indian Grave Gap and hike 12 miles (Bill describes the hike on his website). But if you're like me, you're asking, isn't there an easier way? Well, yes there is! Bill pointed me to a short trail off of Unaka Mountain Road which connects with the AT 1.35 miles below the summit. From here it's an easy-to-moderately steep and rocky assent (alt. gain of 750 feet) to the magnificent spruce forest which covers the top of Unaka. There are no views or overlooks here, but what you'll find is spectacular. The dense pine trees make for an eerie, mysterious and memorable experience (similar to what you'll find on the AT on the way from Carver's Gap to Round Bald on Roan Mountain -- see here). Click here to see a view of the Red Spruce trees looking up!

Directions: From I-26 take the Erwin Main Street Exit (#36), at the end of the ramp turn east toward town and you will immediately arrive at a stop light. Turn right onto Rt. 107 and drive 1/2 mile, turn left at stop light onto Rock Creek Road (Rt. 395) -- continue on for 6.5 miles to TN/NC line (called Indian Grave Gap) and then take the gravel road to the left (the road is in pretty good shape although it's probably good to have a high clearance vehicle). After 2.1 miles you'll come to a fork, stay left (if you turn right you'll immediately arrive at the Beauty Spot). Continue on for another 2.1 miles to the second sharp switchback turn and park. (If you come to another fork in the road you've reached the Unaka Mountain Overlook --a.k.a. Pleasant Garden-- and have gone too far, go back 0.65 miles). If you park here, you will find a little trail leading into the woods at the sharpest point of the curve. Take this trail and you will immediately come to the AT, then turn left and head up to the top of Unaka 1.35 miles. Map

Click here for a post listing all there is to see and do on Unaka Mountain -- which gives directions and mileage starting from the Unicoi side (Iron Mtn Gap) to the Erwin side (Indian Grave Gap).

Serene Beauty

You cannot perceive beauty but with a serene mind.
--Henry David Thoreau (1817-1862)

As you start up Round Bald from Carver's Gap, you encounter a dense conifer forest with an other-worldly quality to it. It's like a scene out of The Hobbit - there's something mystical about this short section of the Appalachian Trail. I've heard some people say they think it's spooky, as if a thousand eyes were secretly watching. I actually find it to be a very peaceful, serene place. Even if the winds are whipping on the balds above, the woods are usually calm and quiet. Often there's a mist that settles in, casting a soft glow over the landscape.

It used to be you would take log steps up 1000 feet from Carver's Gap to the top of Round Bald. But hikers often chose to avoid the steep steps, instead walking around them, which caused a great deal of soil erosion. Thankfully, the TEHCC rerouted the AT through the forest, making the trail not only more gradual and environmentally responsible, but also more enjoyable and memorable. One thing I always wondered was, how did all that gravel get up on the trail over Round Bald? That was part of the trail location project that was completed in 2002 -- reading about the how 400 tons of gravel were hauled up the mountain in a low-impact manner, makes me grateful for all the work done by volunteers to keep the AT in the great shape it is in today.

Keeping the Balds Bald

They're calling it The Baa-tany Project. These goats are part of a serious effort to save the grassy Balds in the Roan Highlands from encroaching forests. The origin of such balds has always been a subject of debate among scientists -- but whatever their origin it's clear that without some human help, the balds will eventually be bald no more. The goats are an experiment in vegetation management. About forty Angora goats, which are well-suited for high elevations, are munching away at the invasive woody plants in a 1/2 to 1 acre movable paddock, complete with solar-powered electric fencing. Volunteers are involved in monitoring the goats and hauling water up from mountain streams. If you want to get involved as a volunteer or if you'd like to 'adopt' a goat -- contact the Friends of Roan Mountain for more information. Click here for an excellent article about this project. If you'd like to experience the Roan balds or see the goats for yourself, head on out to Carver's Gap and take the Appalachian Trail (for about 1 to 1.5 miles) up past Round Bald and Jane Bald.

Directions: Take Route 19E to the town of Roan Mountain, turn onto Route 143 and travel 12.8 miles to the TN/NC state line (Carver's Gap). On your way up the mountain, you'll pass through the Roan Mountain State Park. Eventually, you leave the state park and enter the national forest. Park at Carver's Gap, cross the road to your left, and take the Appalachian Trail to the top of Round Bald -- this short hike will give you an amazing panoramic views of the mountains, a short distance further on the AT will take you to Jane Bald. If you continue on, you'll reach Grassy Bald. Click here for information about hiking the AT through the Roan Highlands; click here for a map of the area.

Roan High Bluff Overlook

This one just makes me laugh. Milligan College photography major Michael Kaal (click here to see his gallery) and Duke check out the view from the Roan High Bluff Overlook. The view is amazing -- and the short hike to get there is just as thrilling. I love the smell of the pines on Roan - the rush of the wind - the green moss, the bent trees and the rugged boulders. I have lots of fond memories associated with this trail. It's one of those destinations I've been taking family and friends to see ever since I moved here in 1995. There are many days when you look out over the rail and see misty clouds forming in the valley being swooped up the mountain side -- and you watch as they rush over you and the mountain. The next time you visit Roan, here are some things you won't want to miss...

Carver's Gap, the Appalachian Trail and the Balds - the trail up to Round Bald is unforgettable, as are the views once you reach the top
The Old Cloudland Hotel Site - lots of wildflowers
Sunset Rock - secluded overlook, great view!
Roan High Knob Shelter - the highest shelter on the AT
The Rhododendron Gardens - pretty any time of year, but especially in June.
Roan High Bluff Overlook (this post) - a short and interesting hike with a fantastic view

Directions: Take Route 19E to the town of Roan Mountain, turn onto Route 143 and travel 12.8 miles to the TN/NC state line (Carver's Gap). On your way up the mountain, you'll pass by the Dave Miller Homestead and the Roan Mountain State Park. Eventually, you leave the state park and enter the national forest. At Carver's Gap turn right, following the signs to the Cloudland Hotel site and Rhododendron Gardens two miles up! After checking out the Cloudland site, Sunset Rock and the Rhododendron Gardens, drive on to the end of the gravel parking area and park at the trail head for the Roan High Bluff -- a short hike (1/2 mile) will take you to the overlook. After that, return to Carver's Gap on your way down from the gardens and take the Appalachian Trail to the top of Round Bald -- this short hike will give you an amazing panoramic views of the mountains, a short distance further on the AT will take you to Jane Bald. If you continue on, you'll reach Grassy Bald. Click here for information about hiking the AT through the Roan Highlands; click here for a topo map of Roan Mountain.

Gray's Lily

The Gray's Lily is a rare and endangered flower found only in this part of Appalachia (TN, NC and VA). The flowers pictured here were all found on Jane Bald, one of three balds in the Roan Highlands. Round Bald, Jane Bald and Grassy Bald -- all three offer breathtaking panoramic views. I've heard locals refer to them as the 'three sisters'. These grassy, treeless mountaintops, are unique and very fragile ecosystems. Here you will find plant species unique to Appalachia, like the Gray's Lily. It is named for Asa Gray, the father of American botany, who discovered the flower in 1841. See yesterday's post for directions to Roan Mountain.

Each moment of the year has its own beauty . . . a picture which was never before and shall never be seen again.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882) philosopher and writer

"A Jewel of Nature"

The 62nd annual Roan Mountain Rhododendron Festival is underway! As you can see the festival planners picked the perfect weekend for the celebration -- the rhodos on top of Roan Mountain are at their peak this weekend. If you hike the balds from Carver's Gap, you'll also find that the flame azalea are also in bloom (although they're a little past their peak). The Gray's Lilies are blooming on Jane Bald, and will probably reach their peak this coming week. The festival activities take place down at the state park -- click here for the schedule of events. Click here for more information on Roan Mountain.

Directions: Take Route 19E to the town of Roan Mountain, turn onto Route 143 and travel 12.8 miles to the TN/NC state line (Carver's Gap). On your way up the mountain, you'll pass through the Roan Mountain State Park. Eventually, you leave the state park and enter the national forest. At Carver's Gap turn right, following the signs to the Rhododendron Gardens two miles up!

Other things to do: Click here for a list of all the things to see and do on Roan Mountain.

a beaten path

It is remarkable how easily and insensibly we fall into a particular route, and make a beaten track for ourselves.
--Henry David Thoreau (1817-1862) American author, naturalist, transcendentalist, tax resister, development critic, and philosopher

Before I went to law school, long ago, in a land far away, people gave me lots of advice on what to read. There were the standard recommendations, Stern's The Buffalo Creek Disaster, Llewellyn's The Bramble Bush, Turow's One-L, Woodward's The Brethren, and of course, Harper Lee's To Kill a Mockingbird. I read the last three of these the summer before law school -- but I also read a lot of Thoreau. My motivation was based on the following advice I read in a pre-law manual: "Don't forget what was important to you before law school." This speaks to the real fear that law school has a way of changing you, challenging you to the core, and altering your perception of people and the world. So I turned to Thoreau in an attempt to hold onto that which was hopeful, idealistic and often unreasonable. It's not that I always agreed with what I read, but there was then, and still is today, something that resonates when I read Thoreau. A desire to simplify. A longing to explore and experience the natural. The challenge to live deliberately. And I guess you could say, a dissatisfaction with the present order of things and a restlessness to find an alternate path.

Here's a neat blog that posts a new quote each day from Thoreau's extensive writings.

Above: Snow marks the beaten path of the Appalachian Trail between Round Bald and Jane Bald in the Roan Highlands near Carver's Gap on the TN/NC border.

Beyond Words

If I could tell the story in words, I wouldn't need to lug around a camera.
--Lewis Hine

Click to enlarge the photos taken last Thursday near Carver's Gap on the TN/NC border.

I admire those who are capable of writing with such precision as to transport readers to worlds that have never existed. I can't remember who asked the question, whether it was Harold Ross, the local photographer I mentioned yesterday, or Lee Fierbaugh, my friend and "From these Hills" blogger, or myself... we were all saying similar things... "How could you possibly explain this to someone?" Words are so inadequate to express the wonder of what we were experiencing as we stood wrapped the middle of a dense pine forest in which every branch and individual pine needle was wrapped in snow. I guess this is why we happily lug around our cameras.

Warm Memories of a Cold Welcome

Winter must be cold for those with no warm memories.
--From the movie, An Affair to Remember

Above: A frosty welcome to the beautiful mountains of western North Carolina.

Hope you don't mind a couple more days of Roan Mountain photos taken this Thursday. I was like a kid in a candy store, taking over 300 photos -- so I've still got a lot of sorting and photoshopping to do. It was an awesome experience to be up there with everything so white and the skies so blue. I'm happy with the photos I took, but still, I don't think it's possible to completely capture the mountain's magic. While I was there, I ran into friend and fellow photographer Harold Ross. Harold's work is stunning -- click here to see his photos from his day on Roan as well as his other work. Harold has a passion for the beauty of this region and a great eye for capturing it!

God's Love and Artistry

Because God created the Natural -- invented it out of His love and artistry -- it demands our reverence.
--C.S. Lewis (1898-1963) author

What a thrilling sight to see yesterday near Carver's Gap on the TN/NC border -- it was as if all of Roan Mountain was encased in frost and snow. The mountain absolutely sparkled. I tell you it was hard to stop taking pictures! -- everywhere I looked there was something amazing to see, demanding reverence.

Happy February 29th - Click here to read Kingsport photographer Earl Carter's encouragement that we do something special with this extra day!

Directions: Take Route 19E to the town of Roan Mountain, turn onto Route 143 and travel 12.8 miles to the TN/NC state line (a.k.a. Carver's Gap). On your way up the mountain, you'll pass through the Roan Mountain State Park. Eventually, you leave the state park and enter the national forest. The Appalachian Trail, which crosses Carver's Gap, goes up Round Bald to your left. Since they've rerouted the AT in this area, the climb to the top of Round Bald is much easier and much more scenic.

Iron Mountain Sunset

This sunset view is from the Appalachian Trail near Iron Mountain Gap on the TN/NC border. The tallest peak in the photo above is known as Pinnacle Mountain (3540 ft.). An effort is currently underway to restore the fire tower which sits atop Pinnacle Mountain. Click here for an interesting article about this effort. Heading north on the AT from Iron Mountain Gap, where TN Route 107 intersects the state border and becomes NC Route 226 (Mitchell County), you are rewarded with impressive views (in Winter) of Roan Mountain to the east (see photo below) and Unaka Mountain to the west.

Update: For a detailed discussion of this section of the AT, click here.

Directions: Take TN Route 107 (Limestone Cove Road) ten miles east from Unicoi, TN, or NC Route 226, four miles from Buladean, NC to the state line, where there is a wide gravel pull off area. After parking, look toward the TN side and across the road and you'll see where the AT heads north toward Hughes Gap. The spot were the above sunset photo was taken is a small grassy area 0.5 miles in. Another, slightly larger and more open grassy area is 0.8 miles from the Gap -- that particular spot offers an impressive view of Unaka Mountain. 1.1 miles from the Gap is an old, abandoned apple orchard -- there's not much left to see there now, as most of the trees have died out, although there is an indication that some new trees have recently been planted.

Blazing a trail

For anyone who's ever hiked on the Appalachian Trail, the white marker in the photo above is a very familiar sight. The six-inch by two-inch rectangular stripe indicates that you are on the 2,000 mile AT which runs from Georgia to Maine. The blazes, as they're called, are usually at eye level and vary in their frequency depending on the terrain and how conspicuous the trail is. In places where the trail takes an abrupt turn or where the AT crosses another trail or road, you might find a double white blaze, which simply indicates the need to pay attention. Sky-blue blazes indicate a side trail to water, shelters, roads or towns. Click here if you feel the need to learn more about blazes!

The above photo was taken yesterday on the AT leading from Carver's Gap on Roan Mountain to Round Bald. It was a typical Roan Mountain day -- the winds were howling, the temperature freezing and you literally hike through a cloud. My favorite part of the hike up to Round Bald is passing through a dense pine forest -- There's something very eerie and mystical about it.

Directions: Take Route 19E to the town of Roan Mountain, turn onto Route 143 and travel 12.8 miles to the TN/NC state line (a.k.a. Carver's Gap). On your way up the mountain, you'll pass through the Roan Mountain State Park. Eventually, you leave the state park and enter the national forest. Park your car at Carver's Gap (you'll see a 'welcome to North Carolina' sign). The Appalachian Trail crosses Carver's Gap and goes up Round Bald to your left (as you face NC). Since they've rerouted the AT in this area, the climb to the top of Round Bald (about 1 mile) is much easier and much more scenic. Continue past Round Bald and you'll soon come to Jane Bald, and a little further yet and you'll reach to top of Grassy Bald.

Misty Roan

There were bright blue skies with puffy white clouds over the Tri-Cities, TN yesterday, but Roan Mountain held true to its misty reputation. This photo was taken from Round Bald near Carver's Gap during one of the brief breaks in the cloud cover. Click here for directions.