Wonder Deficit

The wonder is that we can see these trees and not wonder more.
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

Bluegrass & Honey

As you leave Grandfather Mountain (see yesterday's blog), turn left onto Hwy 221 going toward the Blue Ridge Parkway and Blowing Rock, NC. You will immediately come to a fruit stand on the right side of the road. Odds are Floyd Gragg will be there selling honey and jam. Pull over. You'll be glad you did. Floyd and his family have been selling here since the 1950s. That's him on the left (above) with his friend Mr. Dellinger (I didn't get his first name). If he has his instruments out you might ask for him to play a bluegrass song from the Carter Family like "Wildwood Flower" or "Keep on the Sunny Side." Floyd is an amazing talent and quite the entertainer. Stopping at this little fruit stand may just be the highlight of your day.

Grandfather Mountain

Grandfather Mountain is a must-see for anyone who lives in or visits this part of the country. It is known for its Mile High Swinging Bridge, a 228 foot suspension bridge built between two peaks of Grandfather Mountian. Come prepared for much cooler temperatures and for ever-present strong winds. You can always check the temperatures and conditions at the bridge on this website. Once you cross the bridge you reach a rugged mountain offering 360 degree panoramic views. Above is a picture from late Semptember.

As you first drive in, stop off at the overlooks to the left which offer terrific views of the mountian. As you continue on up the mountain, to your right will Split Rock and Sphinx Rock which are fun areas to explore. Immediately after that is the Nature Museum and Wildlife Habitat featuring bear, deer, cougars, otter and eagles. Grandfather Mountain also features some of the best hiking I've found in Appalachia. The park is privately owned so there is a fee to get in. The cost is $14 for adults, which isn't too bad considering you can spend an entire day hiking and seeing the sights. If you live in the area, you might as well get an annual pass for $35. At first, I was put-off by the prices and that it's privately owned. However, as I learned more of the history of the place and of Hugh Morton, the visionary and conservationist who protected as well as promoted the mountain, I came to appreciate the arrangement. It's difficult to express in words what Grandfather Mountain is like -- here are the three words that first came to mind: thrilling, inspiring, and magical. I know that sounds a bit cheesy and I'm sorry to sound like a billboard for the place, but if you love nature and Appalachia, you'll love Grandfather Mountain.

Directions: See their website. It's 2 miles outside of Linville on Highway 221 (going towards Blowing Rock, NC). It's right next to MacRae Meadows (see yesterday's post!).

MacRae Meadows

In the shadow of Grandfather Mountain, outside of Linville, NC, is a beautiful open space called MacRae Meadows. Since 1956, the Highland Games, celebrating the region's Scottish heritage, have been held here (usually in mid-July). If you go to Linville, be sure to visit the "Everything Scottish" store on Rt. 181 (Newland Hwy) across from the post office -- it is one-of-a-kind and will give you a good introduction to what the Highland Games are all about. Although MacRae Meadows (and adjacent campgrounds) may be closed for much of the year, you can still park at the gate and walk in and enjoy the view. This is a great place to take photos (especially in the fall). Kids will enjoy climbing around the interesting outcroppings and enormous boulders on the far side of the park.

Directions: From the the stop light in Linville, take Rt. 221 towards Blowing Rock for 1.8 miles. Take the third entrance for MacRae Meadows/Campground on the left. If you come to the entrance for Grandfather Mountain Park, you've gone too far.

Warrior's Path

Warrior's Path State Park, located just outside of Kingsport, TN, has just about everything you can imagine in a park: golfing, swimming, fishing, boating, camping, hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking, picnicking, as well as playgrounds, tennis and soccer facilities. For years I would go to Warrior's Path for cookouts and a stroll around Duck Island, never realizing the extent of all the other opportunities that existed. The website above contains directions to the park along with a park map. Here is a link to the old hiking trail map, which has more detail than the current map on the website.

Warrior's Path has the very best playgrounds in the Tri-Cities. It's called "Darrell’s Dream Boundless Playground" - it is "a place where children of all abilities can learn and play together."

In terms of hiking, there are many opportunities. 1) The Holston Bluffs Trail is a unique 1/2 mile loop that takes you down to a secluded beach on the river. The trail head is located within the Overflow Campground which is to the left before you enter the park itself. 2) The Overlook Trail, takes you 1/2 mile through the forest to a nice view of the lake (and I-81) below. To reach this trail drive through the park, past the marina, immediately before the final boat launch turn right and go up the hill. Park at the soccer field and you will then see a trail head to the left (you could also walk up the old farm road). Here's a view from the overlook. 3) The Fall Creek Loop Trail can be accessed from the back of the park. The road to this back parking lot is rough (high clearance vehicle strongly recommended) and spaces are limited. It's located off of Childress Ferry Road (map here). You can also get to this area of the park by hiking in on the Devil's Backbone Trail. 4) There are numerous other trails to explore too many to list!

Growing in Silence

We need to find God, and he cannot be found in noise and restlessness. God is the friend of silence. See how nature - trees, flowers, grass- grows in silence; see the stars, the moon and the sun, how they move in silence... We need silence to be able to touch souls.

--Mother Teresa

Blue Hole

 

The Blue Hole, located in the Stony Creek area of Elizabethton, TN is a really beautiful and special place, and a popular local destination for hikers, swimmers, repellers and photographers. There are four waterfalls located in close proximity to each other and to the parking area. Its accessibility is in some ways a problem -- too many people come here who do not respect the beauty of this area, leaving trash all over the place. It's unbelievable to me that people could be so unappreciative of nature and of others. Negativity aside, this place is definitely worth visiting...and appreciating.

The waterfall pictured at the top is the actual "blue hole", and as you can imagine, it's popular with swimmers in the summer. Immediately above the Blue Hole is the next waterfall pictured (above left) -- it's located in its own unique niche or grotto and is my favorite in terms of photography. The final waterfall pictured (right) is actually the upper falls. The fourth waterfall (not pictured) isn't as scenic as the rest --it's located below the main falls and is usually covered up with fallen trees. These are not large waterfalls -- in all, the total height of the four falls combined in said to be 45 feet. The Blue Hole offers many opportunities to climb around and explore. But be careful around the wet, mossy rocks! Often times, there are groups rappelling off of the nearby cliffs.

Click here to see many more Blue Hole photographs!

Directions: From Elizabethton, take Route 91 (Stony Creek) for approximately 10 miles, turn left on Panhandle Road, continue for approximately 1 mile to parking area on left. Click here for a map of the area. It's not much of a hike -- The trail from the parking area will lead you down to the falls -- in all maybe 1/4 mi.

Fungus Amungus

Behold the mysterious morel mushroom! People in these parts go wild for these. For many it has become a rite each spring to venture into the woods in search of these edible delectables. Not surprisingly, 'Fan Pages' exist out there, dedicated to this most glorious of shrooms.

Faith

Faith is taking the first step even when you don't see the whole staircase.
--Martin Luther King, Jr. <--(click here!)

All rising to great place is by a winding stair.
--Francis Bacon

Snow-Covered Bridge

This unique bridge is located at the entrance to the Farmhouse Gallery, on Unicoi Road in between Johnson City and the town of Unicoi. Besides the art gallery, they have a catering business and host receptions. It's a beautiful setting with the pond, the extensive landscaping, the peacocks strolling the grounds and the rustic buildings and decor. The website says that the gallery and grounds are open to the public year round, Tuesday thru Saturday, from 10 to 5. See the website above for more photos and specific directions (click on "contact us"). Here's a picture of the pond at Farmhouse Gallery taken this past fall.

Horse Creek

Ventured through the snow into Greene County, TN today. Horse Creek Recreation Area is a new discovery, so at this point I don't know much except to say it's a beautiful area to explore. It reminds me a bit of Rock Creek Park in Erwin; both are products of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) of the 1930s. There are picnic and camping sites, fishing, swimming and of course, lots of trails to hike. At least two waterfalls are nearby: Petes Branch Falls and Squib Creek Falls. While there are some bridges, in many places you'll have to hop across on rocks (not so easy on a snowy day). This park, located off of Route 107, is eight miles southeast of Greeneville and 20 miles southwest of Erwin.

Directions: From I-26 -- take the Erwin/Jonesborough exit #37. At the end of the ramp, turn west toward Jonesborough and take State Route 81/107 west for 6.5 miles, stay on Rt. 107 by turning left and continuing for 13.2 more miles. Turn left on Horse Creek Park Road and follow the signs as you drive 3 miles to a parking area on the left. It's possible to drive into the "back country", but you'll need a high clearance vehicle that can handle the rough road and make it over the creek crossings.

Doe River Gorge

I guess you could say I have a lot of favorite places in east Tennessee. Doe River Gorge is certainly one of them. (I just can't be limited to one favorite!) Beginning in the 1880s this was an important link to transport iron ore over the mountains from Cranberry, NC to Johnson City, TN. The narrow gauge rail line, known as the "Tweetsie", ran until 1950. Click here and here for more history. Today, the area (just outside of Hampton, TN) is a Christian campground. The current stewards have done an amazing job preserving and improving the immediate area for campers and visitors. Visitors are welcome to walk the old rail line and venture down to the Doe River during the off-season (when the camp is not being used) -- all they ask is that you stop by the main office, sign a release, and respect the property. They also have an open house in mid-October for the public. Click here for directions.

A Walk in the Woods

If a man walks in the woods for love of them half of each day, he is in danger of being regarded as a loafer. But if he spends his days as a speculator, shearing off those woods and making the earth bald before her time, he is deemed an industrious and enterprising citizen.
--Henry David Thoreau
(click above for a blog that posts a new quote from Thoreau each day)

By the way... the title for today's post reminds me of Bill Bryson's excellent book about hiking the Appalachian Trail also entitled A Walk in the Woods.

Crabtree Falls

Well, here it is. This gets my vote for the most beautiful waterfall in the region. In my opinion, Crabtree Falls beats out the dozens of worthy contenders here in east Tennessee and western North Carolina. This 70 foot giant presents an awesome spectacle. The water fans out evenly across a broad span and as it rushes down it hits hundreds of tiny ledges, filling the air with a gentle rumble (as well as a lot of mist). With its many different viewing angles, it's a great waterfall to photograph. Be sure to visit when there's been enough rainfall to make the falls "full" (but preferably not too full or else you lose the tiny ledge effect). Fall and spring are the best times to visit -- and obviously an cloudy/overcast day is essential to avoid getting washed-out hot spots in your pictures.

Directions: I usually go to Crabtree after visiting nearby Roaring Fork Falls and Setrock Creek Falls.  So from these nearby waterfalls, I turn right onto Route 80 and go 2.2 miles to the Blue Ridge Parkway (at mile 344.1 of the Parkway). Head north for just under 5 miles to the Crabtree Meadows campground at mile 339.5 on your left (not to be confused with the Crabtree picnic area which you'll pass on your right). The campground is closed in the winter months, so you will have to park at the gate and walk the amphitheater trail or follow the road road (1/2 mi.) to the trailhead. The trail, which is well-marked, is actually a loop. Soon after you start on the actual Crabtree Falls trail, you'll come to a fork. Turn right for the shortest distance to the falls (0.9 miles). It's moderately steep downhill and rocky. Although labeled 'strenuous,' I'd put it in the 'moderate' category on the way down and strenuous on the way back up :) -- of course, it all depends on your level of fitness, surefootedness, and experience.

Roaring Fork Falls

This waterfall is taller and more impressive in person. Roaring Fork is a unique cascade and indeed, it's aptly named. As it serpentines down 100 feet, it makes quite a lot of racket! It's one of the falls you often see on postcards from the area. From the Tri-Cities in Tennessee (where I live), this waterfall is a bit of a drive, but there are lots of things to see and do in this area to make it worth the trip. I really recommend this one if you're planning a visit to Mount Mitchell and Crabtree Falls.  It's easy to find, an easy walk/hike in, and it's really a spectacular cascade.  Also nearby is Setrock Creek Falls.

Directions: From I-26...Take exit 9 in North Carolina (Burnsville/Spruce Pine) and head east toward Burnsville. Continue for approximately 21 miles on Route 19/19E. At Micaville, turn right on Route 80 and continue for approximately 15 miles, turn right on South Toe River Road. There is a small brown sign indicating FS472 (this is just before the town of Busick -- if you go past the Blue Ridge Parkway you've gone to far, turn around and go back 2.2 miles!). After turning onto South Toe River Road, you'll immediately cross a bridge, on the other side of the bridge, turn left onto FS 5520 towards the Busick Work Center for 0.2 miles. The parking area is on left outside of the work camp gate, the trail is on the right. Follow the trail (old gravel road) for approx. 2/3 mile (level, easy grade), immediately before crossing over Roaring Fork, turn right and follow trail for about 100 yards to the falls.  Map here.

From the Blue Ridge Parkway...exit the parkway at mile 344.1 (Buck Gap) and head north for 2.2 miles on Route 80, turn left on South Toe River Road. (See local directions above)

Immigrants to Appalachia

A scene from the Temple Hill area of Unicoi County reminds me of a saying about the original immigrants to this area that I heard on the PBS documentary, "The Appalachians": When the English arrive they build a house, when the Germans arrive they build a barn and when the Scots-Irish come they build a distillery (or so the old Appalachian saying goes). If you haven't seen this show, you need to -- especially if you're a recent 'immigrant' to Appalachia and want to know the history of the land and the people and what makes this region of the country so unique. (Click above link to play trailer)

Looking up

Walking through the woods is a completely different experience depending on which lens you bring. With a macro lens, you walk like a beagle with your nose to the ground. You look for color and texture in the hidden places of the forest: a berry peeking out from the ground cover or a spider spinning a web. A macro lens makes you walk slowly and look closely. A wide angle lens makes you look up, spin in circles, and then lie flat on your back. You look for scale and form. Today it was these very tall, very straight trees and how they clumped together that got my attention.

A Prayer

It is my joy in life to find
At every turning of the road
The strong arm of a comrade kind
To help me onward with my load.

And since I have no gold to give,
And love alone must make amends,
My only prayer is, while I live--
God make me worthy of my friends.
-- Frank Dempster Sherman

What waits beneath

I prefer winter and fall, when you feel the bone structure of the landscape - the loneliness of it, the dead feeling of winter. Something waits beneath it, the whole story doesn't show.

-- Andrew Wyeth

Rock Creek outside of Erwin, TN.

Limestone Cove

Just outside of the town of Unicoi, TN is a small park called Limestone Cove. It's used in the summer as a picnic area and a place to fish in North Indian Creek. This time of year the park is quiet, but still a great place to go for a walk with the dog on the trails that circle the park.

Directions: From I-26 take the Unicoi exit (#32). At the end of exit ramp turn east towards town. At the stop sign, turn right onto Unicoi Road (which is also known locally as the Erwin Highway) and proceed for 0.7 miles. Follow the signs pointing to the Cherokee National Forest by turning left onto Rt. 107 (Limestone Cove Road). Drive for approximately 3.5 miles, the park is on the left.

Winter Bloom

There's something very contradictory about this picture. This flower, surrounded by snow in 28 degree weather, is blooming in February. And for once, global warming is not to blame. It's called helleborus orientalis (a.k.a. Lenten Rose) and it blooms in the winter, despite the freezing weather. It's an oxymoron of sorts -- like civil war, jumbo shrimp, educated guess, pretty ugly, business ethics, good lawyer, or educational tv.

Bays Mountain

Bays Mountain Park in Kingsport, TN is an amazing place. The size and scope of the park would make you think it was a national or state park, but it's actually the largest city-owned park in the State of Tennessee. It's 3,500 acres contain a nature habitat, a planetarium, 25 miles of hiking and mountain biking trails, and a large lake for fishing and 'barge' rides in the summer. The nature habitats are home to wolves, otters, deer, bobcats, raccoons, snakes, turtles, hawks and owls. It was great to see the parking lot full of cars from throughout the region -- a very good sign the park and for the city of Kingsport. The $4-per-car entrance fee is well worth it. See the official park website for directions and trail maps.

Light, Life and Miracles

To me every hour of the light and dark is a miracle. Every cubic inch of space is a miracle.
-- Walt Whitman

May you live all the days of your life.
-- Jonathan Swift

Steele Creek Park

If future generations are to remember us with gratitude rather than contempt, we must leave them more than the miracles of technology. We must leave them a glimpse of the world as it was in the beginning, not just after we got through with it.
--President Lyndon B. Johnson

Steele Creek Park in Bristol, TN is among the best city parks in the region. With miles of jogging, hiking and biking trails, a 9-hole golf course, nature center and picnic sites, this is the third largest municipal park in the State of Tennessee. It's a busy place in the summer months, very popular for family and group cookouts. But it's open all year long, and there's a lot to discover within its 2000+ acres. So don't let the weather keep you from getting out - there are beautiful things to be seen all year! Click here for directions and click here for trail maps.

There's also a small waterfall at the park -- click here for more information.

Click here to see more of my photos of the park.

Click here to visit the Friends of Steel Creek Nature Center and Park.