Memorial Day

We enjoy freedom and the rule of law on which it depends, not because we deserve it, but because others before us put their lives on the line to defend it.
--Thomas Sowell (b.1930) American economist

The photo above was taken at the Mountain Home National Cemetery in Johnson City, TN. Established in 1903, the cemetery now has 10,000 grave sites, the oldest are those of Civil War veterans.

Click here to access the names and burial locations of those interred at Mountain Home. Click here to learn more about the cemetery and its history and here for directions.

The Shepherd

The shepherd always tries to persuade the sheep that their interests and his own are the same.
--Stendhal (1783-1842) French writer

Now his elder son was in the field; and when he came and approached the house, he heard music and dancing. He called one of the slaves and asked what was going on. He replied, 'Your brother has come, and your father has killed the fatted calf, because he has got him back safe and sound.' Then he became angry and refused to go in. His father came out and began to plead with him.
--Luke 15:25-28 (NRSV)

The beautiful stained glass windows behind the alter at Hopwood Memorial Christian Church (established 1834) on the campus of Milligan College.

hard times

Making the decision to have a child - it's momentous. It is to decide forever to have your heart go walking outside your body.
--Elizabeth Stone, author

This is my friend, Eddie, with his newborn son. I'm proud of Ed and the man he's become. I've known him since he was 14 -- and I can attest that growing up wasn't always easy for him. Lots of hard times. But through every difficulty, through times of loss, pain and confusion, he sought to learn and grow and encourage others. He eventually joined the army and served for just over four years - including 15 months in Ramadi, Iraq during some of the most violent months of the war. When he returned home he joined the reserve -- and he's now finishing his drill sergeant training. I'm thankful for Eddie and those like him, who serve and sacrifice for our freedom and security with the hope that hard times come again no more.

The song, Hard Times Come Again No More, was written by Stephen Collins Foster in 1854. In its day, the song was well known and a favorite of both sides during the American Civil War. Although many have covered this song over the years, my favorite version is Johnny Cash's emotional rendition recorded in 2003 -- listen here.

The Heights

Heights by great men reached and kept were not obtained by sudden flight but, while their companions slept, they were toiling upward in the night.
--Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1807-1882) American poet

Rock outcropping on Grassy Ridge in the Roan Highlands (click to enlarge).

Grassy Ridge

You will never stub your toe standing still. The faster you go, the more chance there is of stubbing your toe, but the more chance you have of getting somewhere.
--Charles Kettering (1876-1958) American inventor

From Carver's Gap on Roan Mountain, the AT heads north over Round Bald and Jane Bald, before the trail splits, with the AT continuing on and a well-marked side trail heading up to Grassy Ridge. With an elevation of 6,189 feet, Grassy Ridge Bald is one of the highest balds in the Appalachian Mountains. The total distance of the hike from Carver's Gap is 5.1 (roundtrip). Photos of this beautiful hike here.

The Roan Balds

In the morning a man walks with his whole body; in the evening, only with his legs.
--Henry David Thoreau (1817-1862) American Essayist, Poet and Philosopher

I'm always struck by the love and affection people in this area have for Roan Mountain. I often hear people say that they're "going up to visit the Roan." As if they're setting out to see an old friend. And indeed they are. As I was setting up the map of all the area hikes and waterfalls I've discovered, I realized that the Roan was literally at the center of all of my Appalachian experiences.

As you start up Round Bald from Carver's Gap, you encounter a dense conifer forest with an other-worldly quality to it. It's like a scene out of The Hobbit - there's something mystical about this short section of the Appalachian Trail. I've heard some people say they think it's spooky, as if a thousand eyes were secretly watching. I actually find it to be a very peaceful, serene place. Even if the winds are whipping on the balds above, the woods are usually calm and quiet. Often there's a mist that settles in, casting a soft glow over the landscape. Soon you emerge on the top of Round Bald - beautiful views in all directions.

View from Round Bald

The top photo is of Round Bald as seen from near the top of Jane Bald which is the next bald you'll encounter on the AT. For those unfamiliar, the term 'bald' refers to a treeless area -- either a grassy mountaintop or a 'heath bald' covered with shrubs (usually rhododendron, mountain laurel, azaleas and blueberry bushes). Round bald is of the grassy variety; Jane Bald is in danger of becoming more of a heath bald. There's much debate as to how these mountaintops became 'bald' - it's not because of elevation (The only portion of the Appalachian Trail above the treeline is in the White Mountains of New Hampshire). Some blame severe forest fires, others say overgrazing of elk, bison and buffalo caused them. Whatever their origin, these wonderful balds provide stunning panoramic views! Recently, an effort has been made to retain the grassy character of 79 acres between Jane Bald and Grassy Ridge by introducing 34 blueberry bush-eating angora goats to the highlands (in fenced sections). The goal is to preserve what has been described as the longest stretch of grassy balds in the Southern Appalachians. My previous post here. Here's a video and article describing the project; and here's another video of them moving the goats to a new section of pasture.

Grassy Ridge

Soon after Jane Bald, the trail splits, with the AT continuing on to the left and a well-marked side trail heading up to Grassy Ridge to the right. With an elevation of 6,189 feet, Grassy Ridge Bald is one of the highest balds in the Appalachian Mountains. The total distance of the hike from Carver's Gap to Grassy Ridge is 5.1 (roundtrip). To get different perspectives and see additional photos of this beautiful hike from others click here and here.

Directions: Take Route 19E to the town of Roan Mountain, turn onto Route 143 and travel 12.8 miles to the TN/NC state line (Carver's Gap). On your way up the mountain, you'll pass through the Roan Mountain State Park. Eventually, you leave the state park and enter the national forest. Park at Carver's Gap, cross the road to your left, and you'll begin your ascent to the Balds on the Appalachian Trail.

For more things to see and do on Roan Mountain, click here.  For a google map of the area, click here.

an early-morning walk

An early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.
--Henry David Thoreau (1817-1862) American Essayist, Poet and Philosopher

Early-morning hikers along the Appalachian Trail in the Roan Highlands.

a world unto itself

The moment one gives close attention to any thing, even a blade of grass it becomes a mysterious, awesome, indescribably magnificent world in itself.
--Henry Miller (1891-1980) American author

solitude

The farther one gets into the wilderness, the greater is the attraction of its lonely freedom.
--Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919) 26th US President

blissful ignorance

You must not know too much, or be too precise or scientific about birds and trees and flowers and water-craft; a certain free margin, and even vagueness - perhaps ignorance, credulity - helps your enjoyment of these things...
--Walt Whitman (1819-1892) American poet

These strange flowers, known as Lady's Slippers, are orchids that can be found from the Gulf Coast on up into Canada. However, in Tennessee it's officially protected as an endangered plant. While the saying 'Take only photos, leave only footsteps' always applies when exploring the woods, it's especially true in regards to Lady's Slippers. Those who attempt to transplant them end up killing them. The problem is that this flower's root system is so delicate and it grows under such specific conditions that transplanting is very rarely successful. Lady slippers require highly acidic soil and the presence of a specific fungus for their growth. So if you come across these strange and unique plants, just admire them, and as Whitman recommends, don't try to understand them or figure them out... just enjoy. They also come in a yellow variety which I've never encountered here in TN - if you find some yellow ones, please let me know!

in the eye of the beholder

If a given combination of trees, mountains, water, and houses, say a landscape, is beautiful, it is not so by itself, but because of me, of my favor, of the idea or feeling I attach to it.
--Charles Baudelaire (1821-1867) French poet

Martin's Creek Falls is a 20-foot tall waterfall just outside of Erwin, TN. It's not very well known -- but what it lacks in terms of power and majesty, is made up for in peace and tranquility. It's worth a visit - especially after some heavy rains. In times of drought this waterfall is reduced to a trickle. Click here for a full description and detailed directions.

Last year the gate to the forest service road leading up Martin's Creek was locked -- I never did figure out why. But I was in Erwin this weekend and thought I'd again check it out -- and was glad to see the gate opened. The road is still rough, so a high clearance vehicle is recommended. And while there's evidence that a number of trees came down over the winter, the road is passable. The one surprise was the condition of the short trail leading to the falls. It's in terrible shape. It's as if someone came through intending to improve it, but left the cut trees and brush in the middle of the trail. Hopefully this is temporary. But with some effort and scrambling over the trees, you'll soon arrive at the falls.

perspective

Quotations help us remember the simple yet profound truths that give life perspective and meaning. When it comes to life's most important lessons, we can all use gentle reminders.
--Criswell Freeman, author

This is the view of the Nolichucky River from the Appalachian Trail south of Erwin, TN. It's a fairly steep climb to get to to this vantage point, but well worth it. Best to set out on this one in the early morning, rather than the heat of the day! Lots of switchbacks lead you up the mountain and just when you think you've reached the top (or a top) it keeps on going. Your efforts will be rewarded with many different overlooks of the Nolichucky to the east and the city of Erwin to the north. I was surprised by just how beautiful this portion of the trail was -- with your typical rhododendron thickets at the beginning soon giving way to a moss-lined trail with laurels, pines and hemlocks -- and then becoming a mature hardwood forest. It had just rained and the colors of the forest were rich and the fragrant scent of the pines permeated the forest -- making for a beautiful (but strenuous) walk in the woods.

Directions: To get there, take I-26 to the Jackson-Love Highway (Exit 40) on the south side of Erwin, TN and turn east toward town. You'll then immediately take the first right onto Temple Hill Road. Travel for 0.8 miles and then turn left onto River Road (also known as Unaka Springs Rd) and travel 0.45 miles until you reach a stop sign. On your right will be Uncle Johnny Hostel, a popular stopping point for AT thru-hikers. The trail crosses through this intersection and goes across the bridge to your left before re-entering the woods. Go straight through this intersection, and immediately park as best you can on right hand side of the road. The AT begins its ascent up the hill just a few steps further on the right. It's about a 1 1/2 mile hike (one way). Helpful information here.

a country landscape

There is nothing like walking to get the feel of a country. A fine landscape is like a piece of music; it must be taken at the right tempo. Even a bicycle goes too fast.
--Paul Scott Mowrer (1887-1971) journalist and poet

The Overmountain Victory Trail leads visitors through Hampton Creek Cove's rolling pastures. Hikers must open and close various gates as they progress through the cove, a 693 acre natural area east of Roan Mountain, TN. It's a beautiful area with rolling fields and flowing streams and deep woods (along with three hiking trails). This diverse parcel is managed by the Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy in partnership with the State of Tennessee. One hundred of the acres are still used for farming -- and it's a unique experience to share the trail with cows and horses, but they don't seem to mind. The Overmountain Trail is part of the original 330 mile route that was used by the Overmountain Men, a frontier militia, en route to Kings Mountain (SC) where they soundly defeated British loyaltists in 1780. This portion of the Trail eventually crosses the AT at Yellow Mountain Gap and connects with the Roaring Creek valley in NC. Click here for directions and additional information.

as good as spring itself

The only thing that could spoil a day was people. People were always the limiters of happiness except for the very few that were as good as spring itself.
--Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) American author

Mayapples are a common wild flower which appear this time each spring, spreading their wide, rubbery-leafed canopies over the moist woodland floor. They grow about 18 inches high - and its easy to miss their small blossoms under the umbrella-like leaves. Only the plants with a forked stem will flower, those with a single stem will not. Asa Gray, considered the most important American botanist of the 19th century, described the flavor of the yellow fruit that appears as the plant dies back as "somewhat mawkish, beloved of pigs, raccoons and small boys." A good bit of information to know...immature fruits, seeds and all other plant parts are poisonous - which is why the plant was once known as 'witches umbrella.'

Gatsby

He smiled understandingly-much more than understandingly. It was one of those rare smiles with a quality of eternal reassurance in it, that you may come across four or five times in life. It faced--or seemed to face--the whole external world for an instant, and then concentrated on you with an irresistible prejudice in your favor. It understood you just as far as you wanted to be understood, believed in you as you would like to believe in yourself.
- F. Scott Fitzgerald (1896-1940) author, The Great Gatsby

My neighbors' 14 1/2 year old dog, Gatsby.

Walk or Ride?

Now shall I walk
or shall I ride?
"Ride," Pleasure said:
"Walk," Joy replied.
-W.H. Davies (1871-1940) Welsh poet-

The trail to Rough Ridge. I photographed this same scene back in October of 2008. A ride along the Blue Ridge Parkway provides magnificent views and an unforgettable experience. Its 469 miles through North Carolina and Virginia attract 18 million visitors each year. But I'm very thankful that it's much more than just a scenic parkway -- that its designers planned over 200 overlooks for visitors to stop and experience. And that there are also hundreds of trails to be explored and enJOYed.

Click here, here and here for lists and descriptions of the various hiking trails found along the Parkway.

release your inner eagle

There is an eagle in me that wants to soar, and there is a hippopotamus in me that wants to wallow in the mud.
--Carl Sandburg (1878-1967) American Historian, Poet and Novelist

The Tanawha Trail to Rough Ridge invites visitors to release their inner eagle and soar. If you're visiting the Grandfather Mountain area of the Blue Ridge Parkway, be sure to stop off at the Rough Ridge Overlook (Mile 302.8), take the short, but somewhat steep 1+ mile hike to the top, and enjoy the boardwalks and many thrilling overlooks along the way.

These views are from a rock outcropping at the 'top' of Rough Ridge -- in the photo above you see the Linn Cove Viaduct -- and if you click on the thumbnail photo you can see the boardwalk overlook that visitors first encounter on their way up Rough Ridge as well as the Blue Ridge Parkway down below. As I mentioned in yesterday's post, the Tanawha Trail is appropriately named - as the Cherokee word 'Tanawha' means 'great hawk' or 'eagle.'

springtime stanzas

How many stanzas in the springtime breeze?
How plenty the raindrops? As He doth please.
There is no meter and there is no rhyme,
Yet God's poems always read in perfect time.
--Astrid Alauda, "Poems on Nature"

Spring is just now arriving along the Blue Ridge of North Carolina. For those of us in Tennessee, driving 'over the mountain' is like stepping back in time -- an opportunity to see and enjoy a second spring. The High Country is carpeted with springtime's brilliant greens -- which have arrived in perfect time.

Above: A view from Rough Ridge of the Linn Cove Viaduct and Grandfather Mountain. This is one of my favorite hikes found along the Blue Ridge Parkway (Mile 302.8) -- its boardwalks and many rock outcroppings offer breathtaking views. It's part of the Tanawha Trail that stretches for 13 miles from Beacon Heights to Price Lake. With its soaring, majestic views, the trail is appropriately named; 'Tanawha' is the Cherokee word for "great hawk or eagle". For more scenes found along the Blue Ridge Parkway, click here.

BTW, if you're on Facebook, be sure to become a fan of Grandfather Mountain and Mark W. Peacock Photography!

sweet flower of love

Mama was my greatest teacher, a teacher of compassion, love and fearlessness. If love is sweet as a flower, then my mother is that sweet flower of love.
--Stevie Wonder (b.1950) American singer-songwriter

be bold

Congratulations to Phil Wilson (Middlesbrough, England) and the other 151 graduates from Milligan College who today received their diplomas. Phil is pictured atop the 4,000 pound sculpture of the College's buffalo mascot that was installed earlier this school year (story here). I've had Phil in class and have gotten to know his wonderful family over the last few years -- and I wish him and all the other graduates the very best.

At commencement you wear your square-shaped mortarboards. My hope is that from time to time you will let your minds be bold, and wear sombreros.
--Paul Freund

Mare's Day

The essential joy of being with horses is that it brings us in contact with the rare elements of grace, beauty, spirit, and fire.

~Sharon Ralls Lemon, author

Above: Mare with foal
(Click to enlarge)

John Sevier Center

This eleven story building in downtown Johnson City, TN was known as the John Sevier Hotel when it opened in 1924. It adopted its current name, the John Sevier Center, when it was renovated in 1979 and turned into subsidized housing for the elderly. There are two things the Sevier Center is known for: First, it was one of the places Al Capone stayed in Johnson City on his trips to Florida. His visits to the "Appalachian Wing" of his bootlegging operations were so frequent that Johnson City earned the nickname "Little Chicago" (more here); and Second, this was the site of Johnson City's worst tragedy when shortly after 5 p.m. on Christmas Eve, 1989 the building was ignited by careless smoking. It took firefighters six hours to contain the blaze which took the lives of 16 residents and injured 51 others, including 25 firefighters. More on the tragic fire here and here. In case you're wondering who John Sevier was, click here and here.

You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a kind word alone.
--Al Capone (1899-1947) American gangster

Happy Cinco de Mayo!

No society can long survive without parties and parades.
-author unknown-

Johnson City, TN at sunset.

horse sense

Horse sense is the thing a horse has which keeps it from betting on people.
--W.C. Fields (1880-1946) American comedian

let it roll

It is from numberless diverse acts of courage and belief that human history is shaped. Each time a man stands up for an ideal, or acts to improve the lot of others, or strikes out against injustice, he sends forth a tiny ripple of hope.
--Robert Francis Kennedy (1925-1968) American Politician

Above: Watauga River Abstract

reverence

In every true searcher of nature there is a kind of religious reverence, for he finds it impossible to imagine that he is the first to have thought out the exceedingly delicate threads that connect his perceptions.
--Albert Einstein (1879-1955) German-born American Physicist