Firescald Branch Falls

There's not much information out there for this one. Firescald Branch Falls is a series of cascades found in the Frog Level area of Dennis Cove in Carter County, TN. While it's a long drive to get there, the good news is that it's not much of a hike. However, you will encounter thick rhododendrons on the trail, which will make climbing up the falls a challenge (and a workout). But it's worth the effort. I see from the photos linked below that I stopped short of the third tier of waterfalls here, so I'll have to go back out. I went as far as I thought the trail went, but it appears there's one more cascade beyond what I saw.

Check out Wendell Dingus' nice images of these cascades. GPS info here. 

Directions: Drive up Dennis Cove Road to Frog Level. I have detailed directions and a map here. Once at the parking area for Frog Level, look to the left and you'll see a trail closely following the stream into the rhododendrons.  It is probably no more than 100 feet up the trail that you'll see the first cascade. Continue on, pushing through the rhododendron thickets, and you'll discover more beautiful scenes.  This is a fairly small stream, so you'll want to visit after a good rain.

Frog Level

Finally made my way to a remote area of Carter County, TN called Frog Level. It is out there! The people who probably know this area best are the fishermen who wade the many streams in search for brown and brook trout. But there are also many trails to be explored for those interested in hiking and camping.  Visiting for the first time, I had to go to the topo map to try to make sense of all the intersecting trails and streams. I've done my best in creating a basic overview map of all I've discovered in Dennis Cove for those venturing into this wilderness for the first time.

One of the meadows found at Frog Level

Most drive up the very steep and curvy Dennis Cove Road in order to hike to the spectacular Laurel Falls or to camp at Dennis Cove Campground, perhaps also visiting Upper and Lower Dennis Cove Falls. Fewer are aware of Coon Den Falls. And although I had always heard of Frog Level, I rarely came across people who had been there or found much information on the internet. Though it's remote, it's worth the trip -- and the good news is... you can drive within a 1/2 mile of it. :)

Laurel Fork after a rain

The naming or origin of Frog Level remains somewhat of a mystery to me. The area does have a number of creeks and smaller streams. And after a heavy rain (as on the day we went), you'll encounter bogs in the road/trail (wear an old pair of shoes). But Frog Level itself is a pleasant area of open meadow. I saw one reference online that a railroad spur once came through the area to haul timber. Another said these open meadows were where timber was stacked awaiting transport, and are now mowed and maintained by the forest service as a wildlife habitat. 

Small Pond found in Frog Level

Directions: From Rt. 67/321 in Hampton, TN, take Dennis Cove Road for 4.8 miles to the Dennis Cove Campground. From there it is another 1 3/4 miles (road eventually becomes gravel) to an unmarked forest service road to your right (gate should be open) that leads you to Frog Level. This narrow, gravel road is in surprisingly good shape, but I would still definitely recommend a high clearance vehicle for this trip. Although it's only 2.1 miles from the main road to the cul-de-sac parking area, it'll seem longer than that.  Park and you'll find where the road crosses the creek (it's now gated). (btw...If you take the trail to your left, up this small stream, you will quickly come to Firescald Falls).

The old road can be muddy!

Crossing the creek... You can try to rock hop, but you're going to end up getting wet eventually anyway, so you might as well just take the plunge. You'll cross three shallow creeks in rapid succession before coming to the first meadow. Continue on you'll immediately come to a larger meadow after crossing Laurel Fork -- in the far corner of this meadow is a small pond (pictured here).  Here you'll come to a fork with Lacy Trap heading southwest to eventually meet up with the AT in 3-4 miles, and Laurel Fork trail which will continue on to the southeast, eventually ending at Walnut Mountain Road.  Laurel Fork Trail actually runs all the way from Dennis Cove to Frog Level and then on to Walnut Mtn Road, for a total of 7.9 miles. It's just a beautiful area -- and a lot of fun to explore. See the Google Map for the satellite view of the meadows (note the AT is mislabeled).  More detailed trail map is here.

If you continue on a little further on the Laurel Fork Trail, you'll come to Upper Laurel Fork Falls and Campbell Falls. Mike Stillwell has written a nice description here.

With all the creek crossings, this is only recommended as a summertime hike!

I'm still learning about this area! If you have advice or suggestions, please leave a comment and let us know.

let it shine

As we let our own light shine, we unconsciously give other people permission to do the same.
--Marianne Williamson (b.1952) author and lecturer.

Above: A break in the clouds above Watauga Lake lets in some light.

our real journey

It may be that when we no longer know which way to go that we have come to our real journey. The mind that is not baffled is not employed. The impeded stream is the one that sings.
--Wendell Berry (b.1934) Author

Little Hump Mountain

When I first open my eyes upon the morning meadows and look out upon the beautiful world, I thank God I am alive.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882) American writer and philosopher.

Here's the view from the top of Little Hump Mountain in the Roan Highlands. This beautiful grassy bald doesn't get nearly the visits that the other balds closer to Carvers Gap do.... which, is perhaps, its greatest allure. :) The day we visited we only saw two other people the entire time we were up on the mountain. It was a foggy, windy day and the 'feel' of the place was constantly changing -- alternating from brilliant sunshine to thick fog.  My edits to the top photo above are a bit over the top, but I wanted to convey the drama of being on this gorgeous summit. This expansive mountain-top meadow, filled with summer wildflowers, offers spectacular views in every direction. Little Hump Mountain is really a magical place.

Getting to this magic can be tough. This place is remote! You feel really isolated (in a good way) when you're standing on its 5440' summit. Of course, the AT through the Roan Highlands is wildly popular with section hikers, who often will be dropped off at Highway 19E near the TN/NC border, and then take two days to hike to Carvers Gap -- or if a longer section hike is desired, they hike until picked up at Uncle Johnny's Hostel next to the Nolichucky River in Erwin. (Read Hiking Bill's account of hiking from Carver's Gap to 19E). I've had many thru-hikers tell me that the section from Roan Mountain to Grayson Highlands in VA is their favorite section of the entire Appalachian Trail. The Roan Highlands are indeed spectacular.

See my post with directions to the Overmountain Shelter to see your options for getting here. To hike in from Carvers Gap or 19E is really too far and demanding for most day hikers. (Click here to read Hiking Bill's account of his one day, out-and-back 14.2 mile trek from 19E to Little Hump). We got there driving to the end of Roaring Creek Road on the NC side of the mountain. From there we hiked up to Yellow Mountain Gap (after peaking in on the Overmountain Shelter), turned right and headed north on the AT to Little Hump. It's a climb! Grueling at times - but always beautiful. Unfortunately we didn't make it all the way to Big Hump Mountain -- so that will have to be another day.  Click here for a topo Map of Little Hump and vicinity. The photo to the left was taken on our way back to Yellow Mountain Gap, if you click and enlarge it, look closely and you'll see the Overmountain Shelter in the distance.

twisting tree

Plants are the young of the world, vessels of health and vigor; but they grope ever upward towards consciousness; the trees are imperfect men, and seem to bemoan their imprisonment, rooted in the ground.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882) American Poet, Lecturer and Essayist.

Above: A twisting tree found on Hump Mountain in the Roan Highlands.

outlook

Turn your face toward the sun and the shadows will fall behind you. 
--Maori Proverb

Above: My friend, Peter, taking in the view from the Overmountain Shelter along the Appalachian Trail. Click here to check out Peter's photography.

Tweet Tweet

Here's another look at the new Tweetsie Trail, connecting Johnson City to Elizabethton, TN, set to open with an inaugural Walk/Run/Bike on Saturday, August 30, 2014 (Labor Day weekend). My first post describing the Tweetsie had images of the trail from the Milligan Depot to Elizabethton. The photos today are from the Johnson City end of the trail. It's still not completed, but it's almost there.

It's better than I ever imagined it would be -- I know it's going to get a lot of use. People are really going to love having a long flat, largely uninterrupted trail for biking, jogging and walking. I see lots of smiles and hear lots of "This is amazing" comments from the people I've passed on the trail. I'm impressed with the thoughtful planning and the quality of the work that has gone into this project. If you'd like to take part in the inaugural event, click the link above to sign up and register. Click here to like the Facebook Page.

The East Tennessee and Western North Carolina Railroad was affectionately known as the Tweetsie for the shrill "Tweet, tweet" of its whistle.  The 66 mile, narrow-gauge line originally ran from Johnson City, through Elizabethton, Doe River Gorge, and Roan Mountain, ending over the state line at Cranberry, NC; it was eventually extended to Boone, NC.  Click here to see the the Tweesie in action in 1949! You can ride a train pulled by the last surviving coal fired locomotive used on the Tweetsie at a theme park located between Blowing Rock and Boone, NC, appropriately named "The Tweetsie Railroad."  Another place to experience the old railroad is at Doe River Gorge, a Christian Campground that provides its campers with a train ride out to Pardee Point, a narrow overlook of the Doe River with sheer rock walls rising hundreds of feet above the narrow passage. Fast forward this video to 5:30 to see that section of the old railroad line. Doe River Gorge typically has an open house each October where the public is invited to take a ride on the train.  Below is the curving, re-purposed (almost complete) bridge over University Parkway in Johnson City.