Happiness is...

Happiness is when what you think, what you say, and what you do are in harmony.
--Mohandas Gandhi (1869-1948) political and spiritual leader of India

Happiness is flame azaleas in bloom.

The Art of Walking

Few people know how to take a walk. The qualifications are endurance, plain clothes, old shoes, an eye for nature, good humor, vast curiosity, good speech, good silence and nothing too much.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882) American Poet, Lecturer and Essayist

Old fence posts along the Appalachian Trail on the TN/NC border, south of Sam's Gap.

meaningful life

The man who regards his own life and that of his fellow creatures as meaningless is not merely unfortunate but almost disqualified for life.
--Albert Einstein (1879-1955) German-born theoretical physicist

Above: Storm clouds gathering over Watauga Lake in Carter County, TN.

What is real?

"What is REAL?" asked the Rabbit one day, ... "Does it mean having things that buzz inside you and a stick-out handle?"

"Real isn't how you are made," said the Skin Horse. "It's a thing that happens to you. When a child loves you for a long, long time, not just to play with, but REALLY loves you, then you become Real."

"Does it hurt?" asked the Rabbit.

"Sometimes," said the Skin Horse, for he was always truthful. "When you are Real you don't mind being hurt."

"Does it happen all at once, like being wound up," he asked, "or bit by bit?"

"It doesn't happen all at once," said the Skin Horse. "You become. It takes a long time. That's why it doesn't happen often to people who break easily, or have sharp edges, or who have to be carefully kept. Generally, by the time you are Real, most of your hair has been loved off, and your eyes drop out and you get loose in your joints and very shabby. But these things don't matter at all, because once you are Real you can't be ugly, except to people who don't understand."

--Margery Williams (1881-1944), author of the 1922 classic, The Velveteen Rabbit

peace like a river

One can not reflect in streaming water. Only those who know internal peace can give it to others.
--Lao Tzu

The Weir Dam south of Bristol is one of the most unique sights (and sounds) in East Tennessee. The zig-zag dam serves a couple important functions. It keeps the water above the dam at a constant level for fish and birds and its thundering water aerates the South Holston River below the dam. During the drought of the last three years, this sight wasn't as common because South Holston Dam (a mile upstream) didn't generate electricity as often. Still, check with the TVA website to find out when they're generating, because then you'll know when to visit to see the water flowing over the Weir.

Directions: From the intersection of routes 394 and 421 south of Bristol, continue 2.9 miles south on 421 (toward Shady Valley). Turn right at Shelley's Chicken House onto Emmett Road/Holston View Dam Road. Continue for 1.6 miles (bear right at the fork) to the recreation area on your left. After taking in the sights and sounds at Osceola Island, continue on Holston Dam View Road 2 more miles to the top of the dam. Here you will see a beautiful view of South Holston Lake.

Honoring the Heroes

Forty summers have passed since the battle that you fought here. You were young the day you took these cliffs; some of you were hardly more than boys, with the deepest joys of life before you. Yet, you risked everything here. Why? Why did you do it? What impelled you to put aside the instinct for self-preservation and risk your lives to take these cliffs? What inspired all the men of the armies that met here? We look at you, and somehow we know the answer. It was faith and belief; it was loyalty and love.
--Ronald Reagan, Address to the Heroes of the Normandy Invasion, June 6, 1984.

Click here to read a thoughtful Memorial Day tribute by Peggy Noonan (who, by the way, was Reagan's chief speechwriter), honoring three heroes, including Tennessee's Alvin York.

High Rock

Today I discovered a wonderful destination in Carter County called High Rock. Now this is not to be confused with High Rocks in Unicoi County. Both are similar hikes (steady inclines) which lead to rock formations offering terrific views. But the view from the one in Unicoi County is obscured by trees during the summer, so it is best visited from late fall to early spring. High Rock (in Carter County) offers year-round panoramic views of nearly all of east Tennessee -- Roan, Unaka, Stone, Buffalo, and Holston Mountains and everywhere in between. The above photo shows both Roan Mountain (left, covered with clouds) and Unaka Mountain (upper right). It doesn't begin to do it justice -- this is one you'll need to see for yourself! Some advice...The trail is tricky in some places so you may want to print out the directions which follow; Also, I recommend you wear jeans for this hike as the last part of the trail is not well-established; And finally, the grade of the trail is consistently steep so I recommend this hike on a cool morning. My thanks to Appalachian Trekkie Cheryl for leading this hike and showing the way!

Directions: To get there, head down Tiger Creek Road which lies between the towns of Hampton and Roan Mountain in TN on Highway 19E. Follow Tiger Creek Road for 7 miles (it eventually turns into Roaring Creek Road), and turn left onto AE Miller Road and follow it 1.3 miles to the end. Park your car along the side, out of the way. This is private property, but my understanding is that the owners allow visitors to High Rock to pass over their property to get to the public land as long as they are respectful. I didn't take my GPS, so my distances are guesses. But it seemed to me the trail is broken up into three equal sections -- with each third being approximately 0.3 miles. So after the first 0.3 miles, you'll come to a fork in the trail, stay right and you'll immediately cross over a small ditch/stream. If you look carefully at this point, you will see that someone has marked the trail with small red dots on the trees -- pay close attention to these as you wind through the woods. In 0.3 miles you'll come to an ATV trail, turn right and follow this for about 30 yards at which point you'll turn left into the woods. The trail at this point is much more faint and very hard to discern -- but look for the red dots and you'll find your way to High Rock (another third of a mile).

renewal

We must always change, renew, rejuvenate ourselves; otherwise we harden.
--Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832) German writer

I believe these are the blooms of a tiny red bud tree, no more than a foot high -- growing through the charred soil on Buffalo Mountain. It was just a year ago this month that a huge forest fire engulfed the mountain. Today, it's interesting to hike the 'Tip Top' trail to see all the ferns, sassafras, rhododendron, mountain laurel, maple and pine trees springing up amidst all the devastation.

Click here for trail maps and more information about Buffalo Mountain.

growing young

We don't stop laughing because we grow old; We grow old because we stop laughing.
--Michael Pritchard

Sprouts growing out of moss along a trail on Buffalo Mountain.

wild and free

All good things are wild and free.
-Henry David Thoreau-

Butler Bridge

Butler Bridge, completed in 1948, spans the Watauga Lake in Carter County, TN. I can't remember the last time the water level was this high!

Click here for a view of the bridge from the other side of the lake.

Your problem is to bridge the gap which exists between where you are now and the goal you intend to reach.
--Earl Nightingale

be alert, find, know and attend.

My profession is always to be alert, to find God in nature, to know God's lurking places, to attend to all the oratorios and the operas in nature.
--Henry David Thoreau

Lower Higgins Creek Falls in Unicoi County, TN gushing from our recent rains. Click here for more information and directions.

Tiger and Sallie Whitehead

A trail crosses a small footbridge across Tiger Creek and winds its way up to a small, secluded hilltop graveyard, a fitting resting place for Tiger Whitehead and his wife, Sallie. Tiger was an east Tennessee legend -- Tiger Creek and Tiger Valley were named for him. The inscription on his tombstone reads, "The noted hunter - James T. Whitehead - Born 1819 (Killed 99 Bears) - Died Sept. 25, 1905. We hope he has gone to rest."

As the story goes, this bear hunter was named Tiger after a traveling circus lost a tiger and commisioned him to hunt it down. In just a few short days, he brought it back from the thick woods alive. Tiger was almost killed once when he only wounded his target and the black bear charged him. Not having time to reload, Tiger shoved the butt of his gun into the bear's mouth and then reached for his knife and killed it. It's also said that when he was near death, his friends trapped a bear and brought it to him, trying to help him reach the 100 mark. But Tiger said, "No! If it's not free and running wild, I can't kill it."

Next to Tiger's grave, lies his wife, Sallie Garland Whitehead. She was just as much a character as her husband. Her tombstone tells her story: "Sallie Garland - Wife of James Chambers and James T. Whitehead - Age 97 years - She was not only a mother to the human race, but to all animal kind as she gave nurse to one fawn and two cubs. She is now resting from her labor." Interesting that there were numerous pennies left by visitors on her grave.  While her gravestone does not indicate her dates, her great-great-grandson emailed to tell me she was born in 1803 and died in 1900.

In the early 1970's Johnny Cash played a concert in Jonesborough, TN -- the next day, his friend Dr. Nat Winston took him to see Grandfather Mountain in NC. On the way, he stopped off to show Johnny the graves of these local legends and to tell him their story. Johnny wrote the song which he included on a 1975 children's album. He actually tells the story of their visit to the grave on the album "Personal File" which was released after his death.

Click here and here to read more about Tiger and Sallie;
Click here to read the lyrics to Johnny's Song; and finally,
Click here to see a wonderful painting inspired by Cash's song.

it takes two

The view from Sunset Rock on Roan Mountain looking out over Johnson City, TN about a half hour after sunset. I liked the colors and the city lights that appeared. In the foreground is the smoke from a chimney of someone trying to stay warm during our recently chilly evenings (low of 43!). Here is my previous post on Sunset Rock (complete with directions). This post describes all the various destinations on Roan Mountain -- go spend a day exploring one of the most amazing places in east Tennessee!

To the complaint, 'There are no people in these photographs,' I respond, There are always two people: the photographer and the viewer.
--Ansel Adams (1902-1984) photographer

shine

In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present.
--Francis Bacon (1561-1626) English philosopher, statesman, scientist, lawyer, jurist, and author

The light of the setting sun through the trees on Roan Mountain.

Hampton Creek Cove

Hampton Creek Cove is a 693-acre natural area in Carter County near Roan Mountain State Park which is managed by the State in partnership with the Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy. The main attractions are the hiking trails, most notably the Overmountain Victory Trail which traces the path of a patriot militia which set out from Fort Watauga in Elizabethton in 1780 in pursuit of the British -- culminating in the pivotal patriot victory on King's Mountain in South Carolina. The actual trail taken by the patriots encompasses four states: Virginia, Tennessee, North Carolina, and South Carolina (see the maps below). For more of the history of the Overmountain Men and Battle of King's Mountain, click here.

What you'll discover at Hampton Creek Cove is a beautiful pastoral scene. The land continues to be used for farming - so you'll find yourself walking through cow pastures and opening and closing gates as you hike. The Overmountain Trail roughly follows Hampton Creek through the valley's gorgeous, rolling pastures, eventually entering the forest as it climbs Yellow Mountain where it connects with the Appalachian Trail (a 3.6 mile hike one way). The Birchfield Trail parallels the Overmountain Trail, but follows right along side the creek, offering a beautiful woodland hike. A third trail, which I haven't taken, is called the Shell Hollow Trail - a 2 mile round trip loop. Lots to explore - plenty of wild flowers - history - and beautiful views.

For Hampton Creek Cove trail map and directions, click here.
For a map showing the Overmountain Trail Map, click here.
For a map showing the Overmountain Motor Route Map, click here.

busy bee

The busy bee has no time for sorrow.
--William Blake (1757-1827) English poet, painter, and printmaker

A busy bumble bee gathering pollen from a Forest Lousewort.

abundance

For true love is inexhaustible; the more you give, the more you have. And if you go to draw at the true fountainhead, the more water you draw, the more abundant is its flow.
--Antoine de Saint-Exupery (1900-1944) French Pilot and Author

Click here for directions to Sill Branch Falls in the beautiful Clark's Creek area of Unicoi County, TN. I still say this is one of the best kept secrets in northeast Tennessee. I love this place! The time to go is now when the water is abundant -- during dry spells, this waterfall is reduced to a trickle. I saw many former students at Milligan College's graduation yesterday from all over the US -- many commented on how they miss beautiful east Tennessee and their amazement at just how green everything is. In this shot, I left the shutter open 13 seconds which tends to saturate and deepen the colors.

Details: Nikon D90, 18-200mm lens at 18mm, f/20 for 13 sec. ISO 160.

blessings

The Lord bless you and keep you; the Lord make his face to shine upon you, and be gracious unto you; the Lord lift up his countenance upon you, and give you peace.
--Numbers 6:24-26

This blessing is commonly used as a benediction (which literally means 'good words'), the final blessing often spoken over a congregation at the close of worship. For those graduating from Milligan College today, Congratulations! I hope that as faculty we have been a blessing to you, just as your presence in our community has been a blessing to us. And we trust that as you go out into the world, you will be a blessing to others. Blessings to you and your families, and on your future endeavors.

sing out loud

Use what talents you possess: the woods would be very silent if no birds sang there except those that sang best.
--Henry Van Dyke

I have a lot of respect for those who take amazing bird photographs. I just don't have the patience (or the equipment) for it. It's not easy -- they don't tend to come close for long. Click here to see a wonderful gallery of bird photos.

the simple life

Each of us will one day be judged by our standard of life -- not by our standard of living; by our measure of giving -- not by our measure of wealth; by our simple goodness -- not by our seeming greatness.
--William Arthur Ward (1921–1994) American scholar, author, pastor and teacher

enchantment

The only words that ever satisfied me as describing Nature are the terms used in fairy books, charm, spell, enchantment. They express the arbitrariness of the fact and its mystery.
--G. K. Chesterton (1874-1936) English writer

This is the scene directly above the main Red Fork Falls. Immediately after taking this photo, while I was fiddling around with the camera settings, a red fox casually walked across the top of the small falls above, and disappeared into the woods. Crazy that my camera would be focused in his direction and yet I'd miss such a perfect opportunity! But it was a magical moment nonetheless.

Details: Nikon D90, 18-200mm lens at 20mm, f/22 for 2 sec, ISO 160.

divine connections

Strange is our situation here upon earth. Each of us comes for a short visit, not knowing why, yet sometimes seeming to a divine purpose. From the standpoint of daily life, however, there is one thing we do know: That we are here for the sake of others...for the countless unknown souls with whose fate we are connected by a bond of sympathy. Many times a day, I realize how much my outer and inner life is built upon the labors of people, both living and dead, and how earnestly I must exert myself in order to give in return as much as I have received.
--Albert Einstein (1879-1955) German-born American Physicist

For directions and discussions of this beautiful waterfall click here and here.