Sunday, February 28, 2010

Cades Cove

Nestled within the mountains of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park is a valley that was once home to as many as 125 families. Today, with nearly 2 million annual visitors, Cades Cove is one of the most popular destinations within the 75 year old park. An eleven mile, one way loop road takes visitors back to a time when settlers first entered the valley in the 1820s and 30s. The population of the cove grew to a high as 708 (in 1900) -- today there remain over 70 historic structures which can be explored in this tranquil pastoral setting surrounded by wooded mountains. Cades Cove is also well known for its wildlife: bears, deer, coyotes, red fox and wild turkeys (to name a few) are often seen by visitors as they explore the cove.

The peak tourist months for the park are July and October. But if you're planning a visit, note that the Cades Cove Loop Road is being resurfaced and will be closed from March 1st to April 23rd. Also, the popular park destination of Clingman's Dome will be closed until May 29th (both dates are dependent on the weather). For a park map and helpful trip planning information, click here. For a helpful guide to hiking in the Smoky's click here. I'll be posting more photos from Cades Cove this week.

Friday, February 26, 2010

look-see

Look and you will find it -- what is unsought will go undetected.
--Sophocles (c. 496-406 B.C.)

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

what lies within

What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies with in us.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882) American philosopher and writer

Whitetop Mountain Road, Grayson Co., VA

Sunday, February 21, 2010

wonder at the secrets

Each of us visits this Earth involuntarily, and without an invitation. For me, it is enough to wonder at the secrets.
--Albert Einstein (1879-1955) German-born American Physicist

I've received a lot of feedback about this little known waterfall in Rock Creek Park outside of Erwin, TN. So maybe it's not so 'unknown' after all! Dick's Creek Falls is not the easiest to get to -- if you visit it, you'll find out how it's possible that something could be "uphill both ways." Although it's listed as Dick Creek Falls, I've been told that its more proper listing would be Dick's Creek Falls. And what's really interesting to me is the news that this is not the real Dick's Creek Falls at all -- this is Lower Dick's Creek Falls. The 'real' falls is a half mile or so upstream. I've included a photo sent into me by my Trekkie friend Cheryl (click thumbnail to enlarge). But try as I might today, I could not find the upper falls. It's pretty thick brush in those parts. So if anyone has specific, detailed directions to the upper falls, I'd greatly appreciate the help.

For directions from Rock Creek Park to the lower falls that you see above, click here.

Isn't there an easier way?!? I've also been asked if it would be easier to venture to the falls via Hwy 107 outside of Unicoi. I've done that, so I can say definitively, "No, it's not." If anyone were crazy enough to not heed my advice... you'd start at the North Indian Creek Campground entrance, where a forest service road crosses the creek (you'd actually drive through the creek). With all the downed trees, bogs, high water, etc. you'd be better off parking at the campground (after getting permission from the owner). After taking off your shoes, rolling up your pants and crossing the creek, you walk up the road which in reality is another creek bed that feeds into North Indian Creek. And just when you think you're in the clear, you realize that this area is a complete labyrinth of poorly maintained forest service roads going off in every direction -- with many very large, deep mud puddles/bogs that you have to somehow get around. With so many different unmarked roads, it would be very difficult to give accurate directions (which I won't attempt). A GPS is absolutely essential for such a hike. But honestly, I don't recommend this route. Even if you had a high clearance truck or jeep, the road is in terrible shape -- the number of downed trees, low branches and the inability to turn around means that this adventure is best for those on horseback (I'm pretty sure horseback riding is allowed in that section of the forest). But even then, I pity the horse. :) Trust me, your best bet to get to the falls is via Rock Creek Park. (If anyone knows of a better option, please let us know!)

Friday, February 19, 2010

Grayson Highlands State Park

 
With its rocky peaks, soaring spruce fir trees, sweeping balds and panoramic views, Grayson Highlands State Park in southwest Virginia is among the most stunning and beautiful destinations in our region. The landscape is described as something resembling Montana more than Appalachia. It truly is a unique place. But most distinctive are the wild ponies that inhabit the mountains. Located in the shadow of Mount Rogers National Recreation Area, Grayson often gets second billing. But the park is truly one of the gems of southwest Virginia -- I highly recommend a visit!
There are numerous overlooks and vistas throughout the park, including Sugarland Overlook (which you pass as you enter the park), Buzzard Rock Overlook (near the gift shop parking area), Big and Little Pinnacle Overlook (trail begins immediate behind the gift shop), along with Wilburn Ridge and other rock outcroppings throughout the park.

To be honest, the wild ponies at the Grayson Highlands State Park in Virginia aren't all that wild. Though park officials have policies against visitors petting and feeding the ponies, rustle a plastic wrapper and they'll come right to you. So something tells me that rule isn't strictly followed. One family I saw brought an apple for a treat -- at least it was a healthy snack. There are usually a few small herds of ponies at different parts of the park, so wander around the trails and you'll eventually find them.  Once a year the ponies are rounded up and checked out for health problems - but other than that they're pretty much left alone to graze in the beautiful Grayson Highlands. 
If visiting the for first time, I recommend driving up to the top of the mountain first to visit the gift shop. From here you can take in the views from Buzzard Rock and Little Pinnacle (both are short walks).  Then head back down and park at Massie Gap and take the Rhododendron Trail to where it intersects with the Appalachian Trail (0.8 mi). From here you can turn right and head toward a neat outcropping of rocks -- fun to climb, and great views! Or head left to where I usually encounter the ponies - and then continue heading up to Wilburn Ridge (elevation 5526) (two miles total distance). Another popular hike is to the summit of Mount Rogers (approx. 5 miles).


In the summer months, I highly recommend sunscreen and water! Ninety percent of the trails are out in the open, so the sun can take its toll very quickly! During the winter months some parts of the park are closed. However, the road to the main trail head, Massie Gap, is open all year.

More of my photos of Grayson here.
The Sherpa Guide offers a complete description of the park and various hiking trails.
Visit the official park website for maps and directions.

Directions: 
From Tri-Cities, TN: take I-81 to Exit 19 (Abingdon, VA), go east on Route 58 about 37 miles to the park entrance. It's a very windy, but scenic road, so allow plenty of time.

From Elizabethton, TN: take Highway 91 (Stony Creek Road) approximately 34 miles through Shady Valley and Backbone Rock to Damascus, VA. Once in Damascus, turn right onto US Rt. 58. Follow Rt. 58 signs and proceed 26.3 miles to the park entrance on your left. Continue on this main park road 3.5 miles to Massey Gap. (There's a $3 fee per car).

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Elk Garden Gap

Cross country skiers enjoying our recent snowfalls at Elk Garden Gap in Southwest Virginia. Elk Garden is a beautiful meadow, or bald, found along Whitetop Mountain Road offering stunning views. The Appalachian Trail also crosses here -- leading to Whitetop Mountain to the west and Mt. Rogers and the Grayson Highlands to the east (map and description of this hike here). Two other trails are also found here: Elk Garden Trail and the VA Highlands Horse Trail.

Directions from Damascus, VA: Take Rt. 58 East 10.6 miles, continue straight onto County Road 603 (Konnarock Rd.) and drive 4.4 miles, turn right onto Route 600 (Whitetop Mountain Rd) and travel 3.3 miles to a well marked parking area on your right.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

aim to lose

The aim of life is not to gain a place in the sun, nor to achieve fame or success, but to lose ourselves in the glory of God.
--Eulogy for St. Ignatius Loyola

The alter of the amazing Basilica of St. Lawrence in Asheville, NC.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Grace Episcopal Church

Grace Episcopal Church, built in 1905, is located on a prominent hilltop on Merrimon Avenue in Asheville, NC. This distinctive stone church was designed by Richard Sharp Smith, an English architect who also supervised the construction of the Biltmore House following the death of Richard Morris Hunt. Smith made many other important contributions to Asheville architecture, more information here and here.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Mt. Zion Missionary Baptist Church

Mt. Zion Missionary Baptist Church of Asheville, NC, built in 1919. This historically African American church was organized in 1880 -- during its long history Mt. Zion has been lead by only five pastors. The large red-brick church building is of late Victorian, Gothic design -- and has many distinctive features: a tin-shingled roof, large art glass windows, and three towers topped with decorative finials. I was given a tour a few years ago and the inside of the church is absolutely stunning with its mammoth pipe organ behind the alter and a beautiful wrap-around balcony. The church is located a couple blocks southeast of Pack Square at 47 Eagle St. More information here.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

love lessons

The most important thing in life is to learn how to give out love, and to let it come in.
--Morrie Schwartz (1916-1995) American educator and author

Friday, February 12, 2010

etched on stone

Love is not written on paper, for paper can be erased. Nor is it etched on stone, for stone can be broken. But it is inscribed on a heart and there it shall remain forever.
--author unknown

Gargoyles at the Biltmore Estate, Asheville, NC
Click here to see a unique perspective captured by my friend Earl Carter from atop the tower at Biltmore.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Freedom Fighters

Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigues of supporting it.
--Thomas Paine (1737-1809) author, revolutionary, and Founding Father

Overmountain Men Statue at Sycamore Shoals State Park in Elizabethton, TN, site of the 1780 militia muster prior to their march to defeat British loyalists at the Battle of King’s Mountain in South Carolina. The plaque at the base of the statue reads:

Dedicated to the Spirit of the Overmountain Men
Heroes of the American Revolution

A Project of the City of Elizabethton Bicentennial Commission
Dedicated September 25, 1999
Artist: Jon Mark Estep

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Monday, February 8, 2010

calling out

For bells are the voice of the church;
They have tones that touch and search
The hearts of young and old.

--Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1807-1882) American poet

Bell at Buffalo Mountain Camp, Washington Co., TN

Sunday, February 7, 2010

happiness

Happiness is not a matter of intensity but of balance, order, rhythm and harmony.
--Thomas Merton (1915-1968) Author and Monk

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Stand Tall

The Founding Fathers established a nation under God, ruled not by arbitrary decrees of kings or the whims of entrenched elites but by the consent of the governed. Theirs was the vision of a striving, God-fearing, self-reliant people living in the sunlight of justice and breathing the bracing air of liberty.
--Ronald Reagan (1911-2004) 40th President of the United States, who would have been 99 years old today.

To see a similar shot that I took last year, click here.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

gentle strength

Nothing is so strong as gentleness, nothing so gentle as real strength.
--Saint Francis de Sales (1567-1622) Bishop of Geneva and Roman Catholic saint

Another photo from beautiful Rock Creek Park in Erwin, TN.

Directions: From I-26 take the Erwin Main Street Exit (#36), at the end of the ramp turn east towards town and you will immediately arrive at a stop light. Turn right onto Rt. 107 and drive 1/2 mile, turn left at stop light onto Rock Creek Road (Rt. 395) -- continue on for 3.1 miles, turn left at entrance to Rock Creek Park.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

two educations

There are obviously two educations. One should teach us how to make a living and the other how to live.
--James Truslow Adams (1878-1949) American writer and historian

Above: Rock Creek in Unicoi County, TN.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

the long road

I have walked that long road to freedom. I have tried not to falter; I have made missteps along the way. But I have discovered the secret that after climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. I have taken a moment here to rest, to steal a view of the glorious vista that surrounds me, to look back on the distance I have come. But I can only rest for a moment, for with freedom comes responsibilities, and I dare not linger, for my long walk is not ended.
--Nelson Mandela (b.1918) South African anti-apartheid activist who was jailed for 27 years; Following his release, Mandela was elected President of South Africa. He relieved the Nobel Peace Prize in 1993.

Above: Rock Creek Road outside of Erwin, TN.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Forward Looking

Look at life through the windshield, not the rear-view mirror.
--Byrd Baggett, motivational speaker

Stopped along an I-26 ramp to get this shot of Unaka Mountain this past weekend.