God is in the Details

They say the devil is in the details, but they've got it all wrong. It's hard to miss God’s glory expressed in the wondrous details of nature. I went for a walk in the woods yesterday at Rock Creek Park and found this sweetgum tree acorn -- and I found myself thinking about God and singing Rich Mullins.

And if I were a painter I do not know which I'd paint
The calling of the ancient stars or assembling of the saints
And there's so much beauty around us for just two eyes to see
But everywhere I go I'm looking

And once I went to Appalachia for my father he was born there
And I saw the mountains waking with the innocence of children
And my soul is still there with them wrapped in the songs they brought
And the Holy King of Israel loves me here in America

--Rich Mullins, Here in America (1993)

Buffalo Mountain

Buffalo Mountain sits in the center of Johnson City and is a landmark for miles around. Here is a view from Powder Branch Road in Carter County. There are hiking trails throughout Buffalo Mountain, and a great view can be had from "White Rock" looking out to the east. Click here for a trail map and directions.

A Snowy Day in Rocky Fork

The reports of an early spring have been greatly exaggerated.

Asheville Blues

It was snowy, gray and cold in northeast Tennessee all day today -- but over the mountains in Asheville it was a different world -- which, regardless of the weather, is usually the case! Asheville always feels like a different world. While it is a tourist mecca, Asheville retains its unique, eclectic character. I think most people only know Asheville for the Biltmore Estate, but it is also a terrific place to eat out, visit antique shops and art galleries, and enjoy the interesting architecture and people of Asheville. Above is a reflection of the historic Jackson Building.

Erwin Linear Trail

The Linear Trail in Erwin is a terrific place to go for a stroll, jog or bike ride. Greenbelts or linear trails are popular with city planners today, and Erwin has built a model linear park. You ought to check it out. It starts at the Erwin/Jonesborough exit (#37) of I-26 (behind McDonalds) and runs to the Jackson-Love Exit (# 40). Ambitious plans are in the works to extend the trail south to Chestoa and north to Fishery Park in Erwin (near Exit 36) and eventually to the town of Unicoi and Limestone Cove.

The photos here show the path at different times of the year. The top photo was taken in early November, the middle one in July and the bottom one in early March.

Sill Branch Falls

My bet is that most people who have done any hiking in the area of Northeast Tennessee have been to Laurel Falls (see yesterday's post). It's usually the first place visitors are taken. I know this was true for me when I moved here a dozen years ago. What has been surprising to me is that there are so many other amazing places in this region that just aren't well known or visited -- there are lots of waterfalls which are even more accessible and just as spectacular as Laurel Falls, but few people know of them. Here's one, for example: Sill Branch Falls. What was neat today was the ice that had formed all around the falls and on the ledges. It's listed as a 40' falls, but that estimate is on the low side. I'd say it's much closer to 60 feet. The picture really doesn't do it justice either. I can't wait till spring to see this with more water coming over it.

Directions: Take I-26 to the Erwin/Jonesborough exit #37. At the end of the ramp, turn right and take State Route 81/107 west for 6.5 miles, stay on Rt. 107 by turning left and continue for 5 more miles. Turn left on Clark's Creek Road and drive 3.1 miles (the last 1.7 will be gravel) into the Cherokee National Forest to a parking area on the left. A small sign will indicate the trailhead for Sill Branch Falls, it's only 1/2 mile hike to the falls (when the trail forks, stick to the left).

Laurel Falls

 When asked about how to get to Laurel Falls (a.k.a. Laurel Fork Falls), I always recommend starting from the Dennis Cove side (described here) and hiking down to the falls. That's still not bad advice -- the Dennis Cove trail is level most of the way in and very pretty (however, the last 1/4 mile is very steep!). Today, I thought I would try something different -- I hadn't taken the trail to Laurel Falls from the Hampton side for many years. It was a much more beautiful hike than I ever remembered. Now that could be because it's winter and the views of the creek were better, or maybe it's because it was late afternoon and the light was great. Yes, it is a longer hike to the falls from the Hampton side -- however, this trail is much easier to get to (you don't have to drive over the mountain to Dennis Cove) and it's still a fairly easy trail (besides being muddy in places).

Directions: From 19E, turn on 321/67 (the main road through Hampton) drive 1.5 miles to the trailhead/parking area on the right. Follow the trail into the woods. The trail will soon split, but it doesn't matter which way you go, they meet up again in a little bit. If you're wondering, no, I didn't make it to the falls today -- I ran out of light. Here's a picture from May 2005.  Click here for map. 

Willow Springs Park

Ventured out to the Johnson City Dog Park at Willow Springs this evening and also caught a sunset. There's an annual membership fee for the dog park, but it's worth it. The people you meet are always friendly -- everyone there has at least one thing in common. Besides the dog park, there's a great kid's playground and lots of paved walking paths in this 36 acre park overlooking Buffalo Mountain. It's one of the best views in town. And a great place to fly a kite!

Directions: From State of Franklin Road in Johnson City turn on West Walnut Street heading toward Jonesborough. Go 1.4 miles, turn left on Huffine Road and proceed 0.7 miles to the park on the left.

Slowing Down

It's hard for me to drive by a red barn and not think about taking a picture. Add horses, and I have to turn around and stop. It's pretty much a 'have to' situation. Two problems I encounter with these 'drive bys' are: 1) slowing down to even notice the scenes and details all around me in the first place; and 2) actually stopping and turning around (which for me is just about as hard as stopping and asking for directions). But I'm trying to follow this advice about photography which says to "slow down to see the smaller subtleties of life." (However, I'm left wondering... are there larger subtleties of life that I'm also missing? But I digress.)

Sycamore Shoals

Stopped off today at Sycamore Shoals in Elizabethton to walk the dog. It was another dreary day, but Duke insisted on going out. If you wish you got out more often, get a dog (and a camera). The two mile path follows the Watauga River, and then makes a loop past the swimming pool and hospital. The park also offers a reconstruction of the Watauga Fort (complete with “Don’t Tread on Me” flag) and a visitor’s center. Click here for info/directions.

Early Bloomer

Today's trek took me all the way out to my front yard. Too cold and rainy for much fun today. The flowers are pretty, but I'm still hoping we'll have winter this year.

Beautiful Rocky Fork

Directions: Take the Flag Pond exit off of I-26 (exit #50), at the stop sign turn left onto Higgins Creek Road. Drive ½ mile, til you reach Rt. 23, turn right and travel 2 ¼ mi. thru Flag Pond, then turn left on Rocky Fork Road. Take your time driving up this road, the creek offers amazing cascades and waterfalls. After ¾ mi. you will see a gravel pull-off to the left. Park here (out of the way of the gate) and follow the gravel lane into Rocky Fork on foot.

Spivey Falls & Big Creek Falls

Lower Spivey Falls is located on private property, which is really a shame. It’s not that the current custodians of this natural treasure are not doing a good job maintaining the falls. They are. It’s just that something this beautiful ought to be part of a national park. This is actually Lower Spivey Falls, as it is part of a series of four large waterfalls, all privately owned. (Here's a shot of the main falls and the upper falls). There is a place to park, but visitors are not allowed beyond the gate. Even from this distance, the falls are impressive and it's possible to zoom in and get a good shot.

While you’re at it, you ought to continue on Spivey Mountain Road (19W) just a little ways over the mountain to Big Creek Falls on the North Carolina side. It’s right next to 19W on the right side of the road. It may not sound pretty being right next to the road, but it’s actually a unique looking waterfall. Pictures can be taken from either side of the creek. It’s open to the sky, so again, as with all waterfall photography, a cloudy day is preferred. I should listen to my own advice, because today the sun was beating down on the waterfall and I really didn’t get much. Below is a shot I took a few weeks ago when there was more water in the creek and the sky was overcast.

Directions: From I-26, take the Temple Hill exit (#43) south of Erwin. At the stop sign, turn right onto 19/23. Go 1.1 mile until the road forks. Turn to the left, taking 19W for 3.4 miles and then turn right on Chandler Cove Road. You won’t miss Spivey Falls 1/3 of a mile in front of you. To continue on to Big Creek Falls, turn right onto 19W when exiting Chandler Cove Road. Continue 7.3 miles, falls located on the right.

Click here to see another post listing the various destinations along Spivey Mountain Road.

Lower Higgins Creek

Here's another destination few people know about. Lower Higgins Creek is one of the most beautiful and serene places I've found and a favorite for taking pictures and walking the dog. If you love hiking and photography, you ought to check this one out. The trail follows the creek as it tumbles down over moss-covered rocks. Eventually the trail will become a bit more steep. You will be rewarded for your efforts with a series of six waterfalls! (more pics here) -- the only problem being that there are no easy trails leading to the base of some of the falls, so you'll need to be adventuresome to slide down the steep slopes. The main trail can become overgrown in the summer months, so now is a great time to visit. If you make a bee-line up the hill from the parking area to the first waterfall (above), you can make it there in 30-40 minutes (one way). But why hurry when there are so many beautiful scenes to take in along the way.

Directions: Take I-26 to the Temple Hill exit #43 just south of Erwin and then turn right onto the old Asheville Highway (19/23), after 3/4 mile, turn right onto Lower Higgins Creek Road and drive 1.5 miles till you reach a dead end (the road becomes gravel toward the end). There's a clearing where you can park. The trail is actually an old logging road which begins to the left over a rickety, old wooden bridge.

Remembering Steven

Steven loved Tennessee. After he moved here from Ohio, he couldn't get enough of the fly fishing, hiking, camping, and bluegrass. His favorite places included Roan Mountain, Dennis Cove, and South Holston Dam. When he died a year ago today, he left us confused and saddened, but also thankful -- thankful for his smile, his wit, his gentle spirit which called us to live each day, appreciate the little things and to enjoy life.

Other tributes to Steven here, here and here.

Elk River Falls

Elk River Falls (aka Elk Falls and Big Falls) is awesome and amazingly accessible. It is one of the easiest waterfalls to visit in the area. I'm not sure if you can tell from the photos here, but it's a very powerful and large waterfall. Even in time of drought, there is decent flow. Today the water had a striking blue-green tint. The other times, especially after a hard rain, the water has been murky.

Elk Falls in autumn.

Photography: Photographing this 50 foot waterfall is always a challenge because it's very much exposed to the sun, which tends to cause "hot spots" and overexposure problems (see the top of the falls in the photo above). It's best to come on a cloudy morning.

Nearby Waterfall: From where you park at Elk River Falls, you can also hike to beautiful Jones Falls. I really recommend visiting Jones, it's a stunning and often overlooked waterfall in our region -- but it's a 'low flow' waterfall, so visit after a time of heavy rains.  While Twisting/Compression Falls is downstream from Elk River Falls, it's quite a distance and would require driving.

Directions: Take 19e to Elk Park, NC (just over the border from Roan Mountain, TN), turn north onto Old Mill Road, and after 1/4 mi. turn north again onto Elk River Road. Take this for approx. 4 miles until the road dead ends at the falls. It's a short 1/4 mile hike to the base of the falls. The first part of this little hike is level and then a steep, but quick descent to the falls.

Update, 6/26/07: Just read the sad news of a 16-year-old Elizabethton, TN boy who drowned after jumping from the top of the falls and being pulled under by the currents. It's a terrible tragedy and my heart goes out to his family. If you visit this waterfall, please take a moment to remember Chad Hicks and encourage others to respect and appreciate the power of the churning produced by a waterfall of this size. Read my Warnings, Safety Tips and Disclaimers.

Update 5/30/10: Another tragic death at Elk River Falls, a 40 year old man drown after either diving or falling 50 feet into the water. The sad details, here and here. Please urge others not to risk their lives by jumping from this waterfall. See the comments below for a discussion of the danger presented by this waterfall.

Beauty Spot Sunset

The beauty spot lives up to its name. It's a grassy bald on the TN/NC border where the Appalachian Trail passes over the Unaka Mountain.  Best known for it's sunsets and panoramic views, the Beauty Spot is one of the most easily accessible lookouts in Northeast Tennessee.  A short walk from the gravel parking area leads up to stunning views like you see above.  It's one of three main lookouts on Unaka Mountain. The Beauty Spot is best known and most visited of the three (its proximity to Rock Creek Road outside Erwin has something to do with that). The second is Unaka Mountain Overlook (also known as Pleasant Garden), it too offers commanding panoramic views. It's orientation is more toward the south. Farther north on the mountain is a wonderful, but less known lookout known as Horseback Ridge - it offers great views of Erwin, Unicoi and Johnson City far below.

Unaka Mountain Road is a rugged road, and its heavy use and the harsh conditions of Unaka Mountain, its condition seems to vary from year to year and from season to season, but they keep up with it pretty well.  Still, it's usually a good idea to take a high clearance vehicle (truck, SUV, jeep) to navigate this rough road. Click here for detailed directions and a listing all there is to see and do on Unaka Mountain. 

As if the view at the Beauty Spot wasn't enough...take the Appalachian Trail north for 1.15 miles. This fairly level (easy) hike will take you through woods filled with ferns and will soon lead you to another bald at "Deep Gap" that offers more views and lots of wild flowers. (Okay, the views aren't as great as those at the Beauty Spot, but it's still beautiful!). You could just as easily drive to it, as the Unaka Mountain Road (aka Red Fork Road) passes right by. However, the best way to experience and appreciate this second bald is to emerge from the woods up above and walk through the grassy meadows, following the white slashes (indicating the Appalachian Trail) on the fence posts. No one really knows what causes these balds -- some blame severe forest fires, others say overgrazing of livestock or buffalo caused them. Today, the balds are periodically mowed to maintain the bald and to provide a habitat for wildlife. They offer some of the best panoramic views of the mountains.

Directions: From I-26 take the Erwin Main Street Exit (#36), at the end of the ramp turn east toward town and you will immediately arrive at a stop light. Turn right onto Rt. 107 and drive 1/2 mile, turn left at stop light onto Rock Creek Road (Rt. 395) -- continue on for 6.6 miles to TN/NC line (called Indian Grave Gap). [The sign welcoming you to NC has been stolen, so be sure to watch your odometer. The state line crosses at the top of this mountain gap, so if you find yourself heading downhill, you've gone too far!]. At Indian Grave Gap take the unmarked gravel road to the left (it's often closed in the winter months). After about 10 minutes (2 miles) you'll come to a fork, stay right and you will immediately arrive at the Beauty Spot. Map.

Rock Creek Park

I think Rock Creek is a good way to begin this blog. It is a gem hidden away in Unicoi County. Many don't even know it exists. Besides the picnic and camping sites (and a literal cement pond), there are lots of trails. The main walking trail through the park is well maintained, clearly marked and an easy trek. It begins to the left just past the restrooms and follows the creek to the bridge pictured above. From there, you can cross the bridge to your left and complete the bicycle loop -- another fairly easy trail which takes you through deep woods and along the tumbling Rock Creek. Signs will point the way to Rock Creek Falls (more on that later!)

Directions: From I-26 take the Erwin Main Street Exit (#36), at the end of the ramp turn east toward town and you will immediately arrive at a stop light. Turn right onto Rt. 107 and drive 1/2 mile, turn left at stop light onto Rock Creek Road (Rt. 395) -- continue on for 3.1 miles, turn left at entrance to Rock Creek Park.

Rock Creek Park is perhaps a good emblem of the little known and under-appreciated scenic and recreational areas in the region. I hope in this blog to introduce readers outside the region to this beautiful area and to encourage those who live here to get out and enjoy it!

Warnings, Safety Tips and Disclaimers

Disclaimer. As with any activity, there are potential dangers involved with traveling and hiking to the destinations I describe on Appalachian Treks. These dangers include:

--> Getting Lost. I have tried to be accurate in the descriptions and directions on this blog, however, no guarantees of accuracy are made. Be sure to bring a map and study the situation before venturing out.

--> Getting Injured. I am not responsible for injuries and accidents which occur if you visit the destinations I describe. Most of the places listed here involve difficult terrain with slippery and uneven footing. It is up to you to be prepared, to use caution, to know your own limitations and the risks inherent with any outdoor physical activity.

--> Falling and Drowning. WARNING! Every year people are seriously injured (and sometimes killed) at some of the waterfalls and other destinations listed here. If you visit them, exercise caution and common sense! Stay far away from the top of the falls (wet, mossy rocks are very slippery) and do not attempt to jump or dive into the pool at the base of the falls (besides the jagged rocks under the surface, churning waterfalls have the power to pull people under). The fact that I have photos or descriptions that depict people jumping from rocks or falls does not in any way mean that I endorse or encourage this dangerous behavior.

--> Venturing onto Private Property. Some destinations depicted here are on private property. It is your responsibility to secure permission from landowners prior to entering private land.

--> Encountering Snakes and other animals. There are only two kinds of venomous  snakes that live in these mountains: copperheads and timber rattlesnakes -- learn how to identify them. There are some things you can do to avoid an unexpected encounter with a snake:
-Use caution in rocky and creekside areas where snakes are most commonly found; do not remove stones or logs.
-Do not step or put your hand into places you can't see.
-If you come across a snake, let it be. Even bites from non-poisonous snakes contain bacteria and require medical attention.
-Click here for helpful information and advice regarding black bear encounters.


Additional Safety Tips:
- Carry water. If you're going to hike more than ½ mile – it's a good idea to bring along some water. Never drink out of streams or lakes - Water sources can be tainted with bacteria and pollutants.

- Carry proper clothing and supplies. The mountains are susceptible to unpredictable fluctuations in weather. Warm sunny days can become cold and rainy in a matter of minutes. Carry a rain poncho; you can buy the small folded-up ones for $1. Remember that even though it might be 70º F in town, it could be 55º F on the mountain. (In addition to the extra clothes, you should consider bringing a first aid kit, insect repellent, sunblock, snacks, a flashlight, a lighter and a pocketknife).

- Carry a cell phone. This may be your most important safety item. Although there may not be service in remote locations, I've found that there are often pockets where you can pick up a signal. It's best to turn your cell phone off to save the battery when you venture into the back-country (cell phone batteries quickly deplete when they are searching for a signal).

- Don't hike alone. Being stranded in the middle of nowhere with a sprained ankle or broken bone is a dangerous, desperate situation. If you insist on going it alone, choose shorter, safer hikes to popular destinations -- and always let others know where you are going and when to expect your return.

- Watch for Poison ivy. Poison ivy is everywhere in these mountains, so you should learn how to identify it. Wear jeans for deep woods hikes.

- Protect Vegetation. There are many species of rare plants in this area. Please be very careful not to trample or pick vegetation while exploring!

The bottom line is that you are responsible for your own safety. This requires that you be fully prepared for all contingencies, be in good physical condition, exercise appropriate caution and carefully monitor your children at all times. With all that said, I wish you many Happy Trails! Be safe!