Are we having fun yet?

Time's fun when you're having flies.
--Kermit the Frog (b.1955)

I found this happy little camper in my garage and thought he needed his portrait taken. :)

radiance

First you need only look: Notice and honor the radiance of everything about you... Play in this universe. Tend all these shining things around you: The smallest plant, the creatures and objects in your care. Be gentle and nurture. Listen...
--Anne Hillman, actress

The Roan

To be rooted is perhaps the most important but least understood need of the human soul.
--Simone Weil (1909-1943) philosopher

I'm always struck by the love and affection people in this area have for Roan Mountain. I often hear people say that they're "going up to visit the Roan." As if they're setting out to see an old friend. And indeed they are. As I was setting up the map of all the area hikes and waterfalls I've discovered, I realized that the Roan was literally at the center of all of my Appalachian experiences.

Unaka Mountain Summit

There's so much to Unaka Mountain I have yet to discover. I'm grateful to Hiking Bill for encouraging me to the hike to the top of Unaka Mountain (elev. 5,180 feet). The Appalachian Trail actually crosses the summit of Unaka, so if you wanted to climb the entire mountain, you could start at either Iron Mountain Gap or Indian Grave Gap and hike 12 miles (Bill describes the hike on his website). But if you're like me, you're asking, isn't there an easier way? Well, yes there is! Bill pointed me to a short trail off of Unaka Mountain Road which connects with the AT 1.35 miles below the summit. From here it's an easy-to-moderately steep and rocky assent (alt. gain of 750 feet) to the magnificent spruce forest which covers the top of Unaka. There are no views or overlooks here, but what you'll find is spectacular. The dense pine trees make for an eerie, mysterious and memorable experience (similar to what you'll find on the AT on the way from Carver's Gap to Round Bald on Roan Mountain -- see here). Click here to see a view of the Red Spruce trees looking up!

Directions: From I-26 take the Erwin Main Street Exit (#36), at the end of the ramp turn east toward town and you will immediately arrive at a stop light. Turn right onto Rt. 107 and drive 1/2 mile, turn left at stop light onto Rock Creek Road (Rt. 395) -- continue on for 6.5 miles to TN/NC line (called Indian Grave Gap) and then take the gravel road to the left (the road is in pretty good shape although it's probably good to have a high clearance vehicle). After 2.1 miles you'll come to a fork, stay left (if you turn right you'll immediately arrive at the Beauty Spot). Continue on for another 2.1 miles to the second sharp switchback turn and park. (If you come to another fork in the road you've reached the Unaka Mountain Overlook --a.k.a. Pleasant Garden-- and have gone too far, go back 0.65 miles). If you park here, you will find a little trail leading into the woods at the sharpest point of the curve. Take this trail and you will immediately come to the AT, then turn left and head up to the top of Unaka 1.35 miles. Map

Click here for a post listing all there is to see and do on Unaka Mountain -- which gives directions and mileage starting from the Unicoi side (Iron Mtn Gap) to the Erwin side (Indian Grave Gap).

High Flight

Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of Earth
And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings;
Sunward I've climbed, and joined the tumbling mirth
Of sun-split clouds, — and done a hundred things
You have not dreamed of — wheeled and soared and swung
High in the sunlit silence. Hov'ring there,
I've chased the shouting wind along, and flung
My eager craft through footless halls of air. . . .

Up, up the long, delirious burning blue
I've topped the wind-swept heights with easy grace
Where never lark, or even eagle flew —
And, while with silent, lifting mind I've trod
The high untrespassed sanctity of space,
Put out my hand, and touched the face of God.
—John Gillespie Magee, Jr (1922-1941)

Above: Fighter jets en route to a flyover of the Bristol Motor Speedway and the Sharpie 500.

Along the Erwin Linear Trail

Linear paths and trails are popping up all over in this area - seems most every city either has one or is well into the preparation (or debate!) for their own trail system. The Erwin Linear Trail runs for more than three miles along the western edge of the city, passing creeks, ponds and the Nolichucky River. Although not particularly well-marked from the road, hopefully the map below will show that it can be accessed from any of the three Interstate 26 exits in Erwin (click map to enlarge). A few stretches pass through residential and industrial areas, but there many beautiful areas which make this trail perfect for a walk or a bike ride. If you're new to Erwin and their trail, I recommend taking the Erwin/Jonesborough Exit at Mile 37 (Route 81/107) and parking behind McDonald's. To the north of McDonald's a short walk on the trail will take you past two beautiful ponds. The area south of McDonald's also becomes very nice once you head into the woods and along the creek - this section of the path is well lit at night, while the newer section (north of McDonald's to Fishery Park, is not).

Top photo: The glowing light of late afternoon was great for capturing these ducks swimming across this Erwin Linear Trail pond.

influence

The life I touch for good or ill will touch another life, and that in turn another, until who knows where the trembling stops or in what far place my touch will be felt.
--Frederick Buechner (1926-2022) Presbyterian minister and author 

 Above: Reflections along the Erwin Linear Trail, Erwin, TN

that subtle something

It is not so much for its beauty that the forest makes a claim upon men's hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air that emanation from old trees, that so wonderfully changes and renews a weary spirit.
--Robert Louis Stevenson (1850-1894) Scottish Author

Above: A scene along the Appalachian Trail in Yancey County, NC.

Unaka Flat Rock Overlook

What I cannot love, I overlook.
--Anais Nin (1903-1977) author

Thanks to 'Hiking Bill' Fuller for pointing the way to this destination. It's a small rock outcrop on Unaka Mountain that he's called Flat Rock. It offers beautiful views similar to those at nearby Unaka Mountain Overlook. The trail is very overgrown, nearly impassable, but the good news is it's very short. So if you're feeling adventuresome, check out Bill's post for pictures and directions.

Click here for a post listing directions to all there is to see and do on Unaka Mountain.

Endeavor to live life

If one advances confidently in the direction of one's dreams, and endeavors to live the life which one has imagined, one will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.
--Henry David Thoreau (1817-1862) American Essayist, Poet and Philosopher

Above: The colors of late summer arrive at the Beauty Spot on Unaka Mountain (click photo to enlarge).

Click here for directions and to learn about all there is to see and do on Unaka Mountain in Unicoi County, TN.

engaged in a miracle

People usually consider walking on water or in thin air a miracle. But I think the real miracle is not to walk either on water or in thin air, but to walk on earth. Every day we are engaged in a miracle which we don't even recognize: a blue sky, white clouds, green leaves, the black, curious eyes of a child -- our own two eyes. All is a miracle.
--Thich Nhat Hanh (b.1926) Vietnamese Monk, Activist and Writer.

Above: A misty sunset on Watauga Lake

take the thorny road

Virtue will have nothing to do with ease . . . It demands a steep and thorny road.
--Michel de Montaigne (1533-1592) French Philosopher and Writer

Spanning a Century

This curved train trestle spans the Nolichucky River in Unicoi County, TN near the location of the Unaka Springs Hotel. It replaced the original wood bridge in 1908.

So far this week I've posted some photos that were completely manipulated. For this photo, I actually did very little in Lightroom except minor changes to white balance and exposure. The only preset I used was a very slight vignette.

St. John's Church

This photo is of the beautiful Saint John's Church (dedicated in 1862) in Valle Crucis, NC. Today, the church has services every Sunday during the summer months (May through September) and is also used for special services. I haven't been inside, but still I'd recommend a visit to see its classic architecture and country setting. As I mentioned yesterday, I'm experimenting with various Lightroom 'pre-sets' this week -- this one is called "Surreal Edgy Effect" - it's not one that works for very many shots, but for whatever reason, I liked what it did to this shot I took last winter. Click here to see a previous post and black and white photo of this historic church.

Directions. St. John's is located in Valle Crucis just off of Mast Gap Road. If coming from Boone or Linville, take Highway 105 to its intersection with Broadstone Road, turn west to head to Valle Crucis. In approximately four miles you will pass the Mast Store Annex and shortly after the original Mast Store (both are on your right). Continue straight on Broadstone (now Highway 194) for approximately one more mile and then turn left on Mast Gap Road. You'll quickly come to Still House Hollow, turn left (A sign will point the way to St. John's). It's a short distance from here to the church (which will be on your right).

Boone Lake Fun

Boone Reservoir was created in 1952 with the completion of Boone Dam on the south fork of the Holston River. It offers a very nice public beach -- and lots of picnic tables looking over the lake. It's located just off of Route 75, west of the Tri-Cities Airport, so if you're ever out that way, check it out.

I like this shot of Hannah and her dad, Tim, as they play in the warm light of late afternoon and the cool waters of the Boone Reservoir after a picnic celebrating Tim's 28th birthday.

Yes, I'm having a little too much fun playing around with Lightroom 2 presets. Can you tell? This is one of my favorites, inspired by the bold look of the movie "300". Presets, in case you're wondering, are pre-selected settings (think of them as shortcuts) that make it easy to quickly obtain a specific look. Lightroom is awesome -- if you have it and want to get some free presets, click here. I think this whole preset thing will just be a fad for me -- something I'll eventually get over. But if it's okay with you, I'd like to share some more 'preset' shots with you this week.

Honored Bee

The bee is more honored than other animals, not because she labors, but because she labors for others.
--St. John Chrysostom (347-407) Church Father, biblical interpreter, and archbishop of Constantinople

Holston Fire Tower

High atop Holston Mountain (elev. 4,000 feet) stands an imposing 100 foot tower, constructed in 1943. Back in the day when the forest service operated a network of these mountaintop lookouts, this tower had a 12x12 live-in cab at the top. It was removed after the tower ceased being used in 1991. In case you're wondering -- a privy and shower were located at the base of the tower. (!)

It used to be possible to climb the winding steel stairs to the top. But time has taken its toll on the structure and rendered it dangerous and unsafe. It is now fenced off with barbed wire at the top and bottom. Don't try to climb the tower. Hopefully they will someday rehab the tower like the one on Pinnacle Mountain so people can once again take in the beautiful views of Holston Lake and Bristol.

Hiking Bill's post on the tower here.

Directions: From Elizabethton, TN take Route 91 (Stoney Creek) east for 10 miles, turn left on Panhandle Road and reset your odometer. At 1 mile you'll pass by the parking area for the Blue Hole on your left. At 1.4 miles you'll come to a gate that is typically closed in the winter months. (I'm told there's a trail leading from here to the top, but have not investigated that for myself. If there is, it's probably a steep, four mile trail from this point to the fire tower.) At 4.4 miles, the road splits. To your right is the gated road leading to the tower -- park here. The tower is one mile further up the road on foot - it's a fairly easy grade to the top. Click here for a map of the area.

Other area fire tower hikes:

• Bay's Mountain (Kingsport)
• Pinnacle Mountain (Unicoi)

[post updated 5/2016]

Don't fence me in

Oh, give me land, lots of land under starry skies above,
Don't fence me in.
Let me ride through the wide open country that I love,
Don't fence me in.

--Cole Porter and Robert Fletcher, 1934. Click here to hear Bing Crosby's 1944 rendition.

Above: A fence at Carver's Gap on Roan Mountain.

Dreams

Dreams are at once fruit and outcry against an atrophy of the senses.
--Jim Morrison (1943-1971) American singer and songwriter.

Above: 'Water shield' at Bays Mountain Park in Kingsport, TN

The War of the Roses

The gubernatorial race of 1886, a fabled chapter in Tennessee political history, pitted two brothers, Robert Taylor and Alf Taylor, against one another in a contest known as The War of the Roses. Before the race began it is said their mother told her sons to keep the race honest and friendly. They did -- conducting forty-one debates across the state, often traveling and staying together. Supporters took to wearing either red or white roses (red for Alf, white for Robert) to show support for their favorite son. Robert, the Democrat, won the race and served from 1887 to 1891 and again from 1897 to 1899. Alf, Robert's older, Republican brother, served in Congress and was finally elected governor in 1920 at the age of 72. After his one term, "Uncle Alf" (as he was known) returned to his home (pictured above) on the campus of Milligan College to live out his days. The brothers are buried beside one another in Monte Vista Cemetery in Johnson City, TN. Alf's son, Robert Love Taylor, graduated from Milligan, went on to law school, and became a Federal District Court Judge who's enforcement of school desegregation in 1957 was the first test of the landmark Brown v. Board of Education ruling.

Click here, here, and here to learn more of the history behind the 'War of the Roses.' And click here and here to learn more about Judge Taylor.


History is nothing but a series of stories, whether it be world history or family history.
—Bill Mooney and David Holt, The Storyteller’s Guide

Set Aflame

In everyone's life, at some time, our inner fire goes out. It is then burst into flame by an encounter with another human being. We should all be thankful for those people who rekindle the inner spirit.
--Albert Schweitzer (1875-1965) German theologian, musician, philosopher, and physician.

mysterious grace

Listen to your life. See it for the fathomless mystery that it is. In the boredom and pain of it no less than in the excitement and gladness: touch, taste, smell your way to the holy and hidden heart of it because in the last analysis all moments are key moments, and life itself is grace.
--Frederick Buechner (1926-2022) minister and author 

 Above: Margarette Falls, Greene County, TN

Big Creek Falls

This 18-foot-tall waterfall is found next to the road on Route 19W near Spivey Gap in Yancey County, NC. It's a popular summer swimming hole, with a large, but shallow wading pool at its base. You can see in the photo above that even with our recent rains the water level is way down.

Here is a summary of things to see and do in the Spivey Mountain area of Unicoi County, TN and Yancey County, NC. To get there from I-26: take the Temple Hill exit (#43) south of Erwin. At the main road, turn right onto 19/23. Go 1.1 mile until the road forks. Turn to the left, this is 19W - and reset your odometer! The following destinations are found along Route 19W (Spivey Mountain Road) and listed in terms of their mileage from Route 19/23 in Unicoi County...

3.3 miles - Chandler Cove Road. Turn right here and drive a short distance to see Lower Spivey Falls. This is private property, so you can only view it from the road. (Photo Right)

4.0 miles - Spivey Falls Cabin - gated and private. Cabin overlooks the main Spivey Falls.

7.5 miles - Spivey Gap Picnic Area

7.8 miles - Access to the Appalachian Trail (see yesterday's 'High Rocks' post)

10.7 miles - Big Creek Falls. Watch for a wide concrete bridge on your right leading to a forest service road. You can park here and then walk along the road a short distance east along the highway to the falls. The waterfall is unmarked and in the summer is completely obscured by vegetation. You'll find it by listening!

High Rocks

This enormous rock outcropping, known as 'High Rocks,' is found along the Appalachian Trail near Spivey Gap in Yancey County, NC. It's a two mile hike to the top with an altitude change of 1,080 feet. I love this beautiful section of the AT. The day I went the woods were so serene and quiet. After parking at Spivey Gap you enter the forest heading south on the AT. You quickly come to a small clearing on your right that the forest service maintains as a habitat for deer and other animals. From here the trail gets steep and you climb up two sets of stone stairs before entering long switchbacks that sweep through the green covered woodland floor. The trail eventually levels out before making the steep ascent to the High Rocks. A short, well-marked, blue-blazed trail on the far end the outcropping leads to the top. The views are limited this time of year with the foliage -- but this would be a great place to visit in the late fall and winter when views of Little Bald, Temple Hill and No Business Knob can be had. I actually thought the views of the ginormous boulder from below were the most interesting ones I took. Unfortunately, in an effort to lighten my load, I left my wide angle lens in the car -- so the photos here don't begin to capture this gigantic rock perched on the ridge line. It's a strenuous hike in the August heat (be sure to take some water), even so, this is a hike that I would recommend.  More photos here.

Sign at Spivey Gap

Directions: From I-26, take the Temple Hill exit (#43) south of Erwin. At the main road, turn right onto 19/23. Go 1.1 miles until the road forks. Turn to the left, taking 19W for 7.8 miles (very curvy!) to a small parking area on your right for the AT. There's only one small sign indicating the AT, so watch your odometer! The trail to High Rocks heads south (to your right).

An August Welcome

You know it's August when you go for a hike and walk into the web of one of these spiked spiders. They appear each year right around the beginning of August and weave a new web each day across open, shady areas (trails work perfectly), three to seven feet off the ground. I really think they like to aim for the head. It reminds me of a Far Side cartoon that shows two spiders sitting on a web spun across the end of a playground slide with a pudgy kid at the top ready to go down. One spider turns to the other and says, "If we pull this off, we'll eat like kings." Maybe Gary Larson, the creator of Far Side, was thinking of the Spined Micrathena when he drew that cartoon!